A great nights sleep. Up early and had a little breakfast. Made me a little queasy. Hopefully I am ok for the day.
We started at the Fetish market, not that kind of fetish, but Voo Doo.
A person who is sick comes to the market for a reading by a priest. He determines if a spiritual or disease problem. If disease, they are sent to the hospital. If spiritual the priest will use dead animals and herbs for a cure. It was fascinating. And very smelly. Snakes, monkey heads, parrots etc.
A priest did a blessing for me and offered several types of talismans for me to buy. I bought a small Voo Doo stature to cure me of many ails.
I bought a Voo Doo doll. Hope she brings me what I asked for.
We are back in the Land Cruiser with AC in the back, heavenly.
I am wondering when third world countries decide to fund trash disposal. Is it when taxing is high enough, tourism dips, or something else? Ghana seems to be cleaner, but Togo ahead is other ways. Ghana has taller buildings and more modern buildings. Togo has a bigger port.
Most people look fresh and clean, but I feel dusty and dirty the minute I step outside, well even inside this hotel too.
Sheets and bedding and rooms remarkably clean. The sewer smells in this hotel, but the shower is great. The sink faucet swings around and the water flow is poor. AC is nice and cold.
Only American food franchise that I see is Pinkberry. No Dominos, sorry Richard Bailey
Just saw huge Bank. Banking West Africa. A very modern building.
Next to the Palace de Lome
Built by the Germans in the late 1800’s. Then it was the split after WW1 to French and English. Later the residence for the Prime Minister of Lome. It was closed down after a massacre. Rebuilt and now a museum of local artists. I learned new history and culture. Like the NanaBenz.These ladies that got rich from selling fabrics. They were grandmothers that drove Mercedes with their new wealth. Their different fabrics mean different things, like a single woman or the get out fabric, “You go out, I go out.” Meaning you cheat on me, I cheat on you.
The Tuts from northern Togo were interesting. These structures tool 3-4 months to build.
In my world, I usually know how each day will unfold. It’s nice to travel and not know. The surprises are so welcoming yet they start as uncomfortable.
Madagascar had so many surprises, like the snorkel suv that just drove in the water and being told to hop up on a Ox cart to go on to the next adventure. Love these surprises. Adventure!
We drove about 30 minutes and down and around some dirt roads and landed at a Slave House. This area a structure was 150 meters from the ocean during the 22 years that Africans were kidnapped and forced into slavery. The house was simple, four rooms at each corner and a center room. The would be slaves would have to wriggle under the house to their holding cell and then they were kept in dark, cramped quarters for several weeks. The area was about 4 feet tall, again no latrines, no clothing and chained together. There was a hatch in the center room where food was thrown down. The guide wanted me to go check it out. I politely said no. As always I could buy all sorts of souvenirs.
I also learned something disturbing from some research that I did today….this is hard to believe, but some of the African Kings actually allowed their people to be kidnapped in exchange for power and gifts like thrones that they didn’t have, ships filled with treasure and other things. So pathetic! Other kings in battle sold their captures to be sold too. How’s that for some history?
A few miles away we came upon a lake, there were canoes, one was waiting for us. A little confusion of if I take my socks and shoes off or walk in the water. Yup take the shoes off and wade into the muddy water and get into the boat. Someone rowed a bit because it was shallow, then a Mercury motor (from my hometown of Fond du Lac Wisconsin) motored us across. There were several beautifully dressed ladies and babies on the boat. Most people ignore me but one cute little boy kept staring. He would not smile! There were also two motor bikes on the canoe.
We arrived in Togoville in about 15 minutes. After putting my sweaty socks over my sandy feet we walked up to the church. Notre Dame du Lac. It was built by the Germans in 1910 as Protestant Vhurch, then it became a Catholic Church some time later.
Pope John Paul 2 was here in 1985 to speak with a woman that had a vision from the Virgin Mary in 1940. In the church, they replaced Jesus with Mary at the Lords Supper above the alter.
In case you need a visual, at this point I am dripping in sweat and thinking can we be done and find AC???
I have learned from a NOLS leadership adventure that if there is an endpoint, one can handle whatever is served up. Shout out to Bob Schultz for encouraging me to do that trip. Speedy recovery to you.
Seems like we are meandering in a deserted village annoying all the cute little goats. Make me remember goat yoga that I experienced once. Why? Just why?
Then we stopped by some temples to learn about some statues and sacrifices.
The next one was was for men. They could bring their problems, make the correct sacrifice, like blood, fruit or animals and then your problems went away.
There was one for the women too. She was sheltered because woman are sacred here, as they should be!
Both alters really stunk. I asked why the goats didn’t come eat the food, they just didn’t but dogs did.
Lastly the souvenirs. I bought a vegetable dyed picture. At each location there was a sign in book. Not sure why?
Last stop the beach in Aneho. Near the border where the river and sea converge. Pretty water, dirty beach. Men and women fish here
Music today reggae with a little Harry Belafonte style mixed in
Street art:
Can’t get enough!
Got back to the hotel, after a successful ATM transaction and relaxed a bit. Had dinner and worked on this blog. It’s a lot of work!
Will go to Benin tomorrow with my guide William’s brother. I’ll be there a couple days. Hopefully a little nicer hotel.
Travel Pig 