Awake early to walk to the bus. It takes about 25 minutes to walk from St Marks to the bus and train station. The bus is another 25 minutes to the airport. I will fly from here to Frankfort then on to San Francisco and be home to San Diego at 9:30 tonight.
Crazy to travel alone… but I truly enjoy traveling solo. Tonight I am having a wine and food paring, alone, at a Michelin star restaurant, alone. And it is perfect!
Apertivo by the canal with a gin and tonic 4 cicchetti’s. These are meant so you don’t starve in between meals and to avoid drinking on an empty stomach, love the presentation. On shells and on pine needles.
Boiled baby potatoes with anchovy sauce. Cannoli with creamed cod . Rice crackers with a fruity compote, birds nest with lemony sauce and smoked oyster
Marshmallow, apricot and pistachio’s, some gel and grappa truffle.
What an amazing dinner and wine pairings. The wine selections were fantastic. Loved everything. I think I have done Venice right!
It sounds like the house’s were assigned colors in the past, but now the residents are free to chose what color to paint their house.
I could touch the menu but I had to wear gloves. They looked used!
This island is known for lace making. I did not go to Murano to see the glass. Back to Venice. I was now starving. Just happened upon the restaurant, best dish so far. It was filled with male laborers. They ate a lot and drank a lot.
I saved room for the zucchini flowers that were down the street. The restaurant didn’t open until 12:30. They were delicious. Osteria Olivia Nera.
Reservations tonight for The Local. It looks fabulous!
I woke up early again. Left the apartment at 6:30. I wanted to have good sun this morning for photos in Burano. Took sometime to find the right boat, but it was worth it.
Can’t get enough of Venice.
After my food coma yesterday I was looking for deep fried zucchini blossoms. I saw a place that had them but couldn’t find them. It was going to rain again so I found a table outside under an awning and sat there for awhile watching people and the rain. It seems to rain for a few minutes and then stop. I had a little snack. Local Cod three ways.
I woke up early and went for a long walk, it was a beautiful clear, coolish morning. Very few people get up early and not many places are open. I finally found a place for some coffee.
I got in line for seeing the Basilica again. I was about 45 minutes early which worked out to be perfect. The lines were very long after that. It is such a beautiful place. It has been revised by fire and flood since the 450’s. Apparently St Mark’s body was brought there from Egypt. The floors of the main part are rippled by floods. Last time I was here it was closed due to floods and days after I was visiting it was two feet under water.
Somebody said take a lot of pictures….
As soon as I made the flight arrangements I made reservations at Osterialletestiere. I have eaten here a few times. Never forget to confirm your reservations. It’s Michelin rated!!
Back to the apartment for a food coma induced nap and a rapid Covid test. I am negative
Ugg another long post lost so I begin again.
The days really blur sometimes. Yesterday after seeing the fish market and wandering about, I spent a lot of the day reading, and sleeping. The bread and pasta was killing me. I guess the Italians are importing our crappy bleached out flour. I was reading a book called Constant Change about a dental lab. I know, exciting stuff.
I left apartment around 5 pm. Rain was threatening. Jennie had told me the storm was quite violent by her. I didn’t want to get stopped by my new friends but sure enough Mickey was just outside. He manages two restaurants, one on either side of my apartment. He asked my to have a Prosecco but I politely refused and said maybe I would stop by later. The poor guy is smitten. I am not the type to want to be indebted to anyone or be the expectant American waiting for something free.
As I wandered around some more, I happened into another Irish Pub. I had been there before. It wasn’t so much that I wanted to eat here but just to get my bearings. I ordered an Aperol Spritz and read my book and watched the Olympic’s. The rain stopped so it was my chance to find the right place to eat. I couldn’t eat any more bread! I ended up at a small place called La Serenissima. With my white wine I had some Bresaola and frito misto. Bresaola￼ is like carpaccio. I asked for some pesto. I could smell it from the kitchen, but received some mayonnaise. I paid my bill and they served me the requisite Lemoncello.
Then back to the San Marcos Square for more photos. I’ll always remember the orchestras playing on either side of the square, competing with each other. Crowds of people would flock to one side then the other, depending on the song.
Then I walked to Harry’s Bar. Years ago I planned to meet some friends there one day at 4 pm. They were coming form England. We were late. As I was walking fast to get to Harry’s, someone jumped me, it was my firmed. We had the famous Bellinis at Harry’s.
I am obsessed with the shoes!
Back to the apartment and slipped by my friends.
I did not sleep well but did get a lot of reading done. I got up early and walked to the Rialto fish market. Years ago, my daughter and I stayed for a week in a flat and went the market and we bought the ugliest fish we could find and cooked it up. Some was good some not! I love fresh markets. It was a little rainy so I ducked into a cafe for a cappuccino and a sandwich.
Natalie and I spent five hours here once, watching people and drinking some Italian beer
Jennie and the girls graciously dropped me off at the train station. Ironically they were on the way to the dentist. I easily purchased a ticket to Venice. The trip was going to take about 45 minutes. I had brought some things for the girls so I was down to a back pack and a shopping bag. Rain was threatening and I knew that I would be walking so no roller bag over the bridges. It was hot!!
I have been to Venice a few times so I thought I knew the way, but I got a little detoured, but landed at an Irish Pub. I was to meet the Airbnb person at three. Devils Forest Pub is an establishment! Internet for a map and Aperol Spritz to cool off. ￼
The best part of Venice is just wandering around and getting lost. There are way more tourists than residents. I met the guy a few minutes later and he took me to the apartment. It’s bright and spacious.
There is a restaurant below so the sounds and smells of the outdoor cafe can be heard. It’s nice.
After settling in I went down the three stories, opened the door and stepped outside the building, into the alley and the host of the restaurant next door invited me in for a Prosecco. He was so friendly that I accepted. I was busy reading as I do and someone else asked if I wanted another glass. He was the manager. Neither spoke much English, but tried. I tried to. I have studied a little Italian over the years but I always revert back to Spanish. We had a few laughs. I was on my way to explore!
I love this square. St Marks
I meandered around a bit, found a quiet outdoor restaurant next to the canal and had a quick drink in the rain and more reading. Beautiful views.
So I go back to my room for a quick shower and when I come down to go to dinner , my new friends invite back in the restaurant. Restaurante Centrale Pizzeria. Micky, the manager wanted to take me to dinner but I refused, but I let him buy me dinner at the bar. Amazing spaghetti con vongole, more Prosecco and a white and finally some limoncello. And the bread! Yummy
Said arrivederchi to my new friends and went upstairs.