Travel Pig

Wanted to go early to the Oasis so I was up early to have a little breakfast and then head out to the three Oasis’s.

I was kinda hoping that I would have Aziz again and I did. It’s strange being in a car for hours with someone you don’t know. At least he’s funny and handsome.

He likes to drive fast and likes it off road when possible. We had many short cuts. He drives a very old Toyota Land-cruiser with a stick and a snorkel. The snorkel is mostly for sand storm. We head towards the Atlas Mountains and Algeria.

First thing we see are a herd of camels including some cute, playful babies

We were to see Chebika, Tamerza and Midas the three main oasis in the area.

Chebika was first. Apparently I had to have one of their guides. His name was Hassan. He was very kind and informative and helped me up and down some rocks. I tried to tell him that I just did Everest Base Camp but he was a gentleman.

It was just a little up hill, through a crevasse and down to the spring. While driving Aziz pointed out the hot springs, steam coming up from the ground, it had to be cooled before used to irrigation. Some of the Date palms and other vegetation thrived on Natural water and some with irrigation.

The Date Palm is so important in this area for all of history. Caravans went Oasis to Oasis. The Oasis was mostly a free zone, no thieves, no violence. The people and animals replenished water. If the next oasis was two days away they had to carry two days worth of water, usually in a Camel bladder that was stretched and dried and tied off at the top.

Btw, Internet had been perfect here!

So the Date Palm

Date palms are:

Food source: palm juice, sometimes fermented, palm sugar somehow made into a coffee pits and leaves food for camels. Dates are high energy, high fiber and high potassium and will rot your teeth!

Building materials: fronds for fences, palapas, hats, purses truck for beams and chairs

Agricultural system: shade allows oranges and pomegranates and other vegetables to to grow

Climate control: keeps the area cooler by 10 degrees

Economic driver: dates have been a commodity for thousands of years. Tunisia is the biggest importer of the finest dates.

There was an ancient town here but it was ruined by a flood in 1969. The Berbers lived near the Wadi, which means dry river, until it’s not. It seems like it wiped out most of the people. They rebuilt a little further from the river.

Next was Midas. As we got close, Aziz told me to close my eyes. He helped me out of the car. Again the word Trust is coming to mind. He guides me, maybe a little too close and up a couple stairs and then we stop and when I open my eyes I am at the edge of a cliff! It was kinda cool. I like surprises, most of the time!

As we are walking back he asks if he can kiss me. I said no. We discussed our relationships. His wife does three years ago. No children. It sounds like he has to wait 5 more years to remarry, something may have been lost in translation.

I spent the afternoon relaxing by the pool. There was a second pool that was warm enough to swim in. My flight from Tozeur to Tunis got changed. I was scheduled to leave at 3ish and it was moved up to 8:45. Kinda inconvenient, so I changed my fright to Rome to a day earlier. I think I wrote this already, but now at the airport. I arrived very early so I could try to get a seat in front. Chatty helped me translate my wishes in French and Arabic but the check in person spoke excellent English. And it does wonders when you praise a persons country.

I might meet an old friend in Rome.

I spent the day relaxing and reading. I made a plan to take a taxi to the Medina. The concierge recommended leaving at 4:30 pm. I had prepared with ChatGPT what gate to start at and where several restaurants I might try. I had this translated to Arabic which was very helpful. The Médina had beautiful brick structure but it was kinda empty. I found a museum so I went in. It turned out to be pretty interesting. The guide spoke pretty good English and French, when two others joined us.

Ceramic platters Packer colors? Green for the oasis and yellow for the sand

All the houses are designed with an inner courtyard and rooms surrounding, like a kitchen and traditional bedrooms

I walked around a bit but not much happening, a few shops were open, but I don’t buy much these days. I was pretty sure I knew where I was headed to a restaurant that served alcohol and local food

A little boy was running around and kept trying to grab my wine. Not sure if wanted to get rid of it or drink it. So many cats and flies. I wanted local…..

The couscous was a huge serving. The lamb was ok but very little meat. More for the flavoring. It kinda had a green color but it was from the marinade

I walked down the street but I didn’t feel comfortable so I grabbed a taxi and went back to the hotel.

Yesterday was a long day. After the Aerobar, I went back to the domestic area. I could have finished my wine, but I sat at a little coffee place so I could have a chair. People just crowd around way too close. Again there were screaming children and we were delayed an hour. The flight was 2 hours with a very short layover after 35 minutes in Dejerba, a small island off the coast. My seat was the very last row, it felt like the old smoking section days.

I found a taxi, and he drove me to Mora Sahara Resort. It was dark but you could see that it was a beautiful property.

My room was a beautiful suite with a desert view.

I could show more photos but after one night I had to complain. No AC. It was so hot.

I ate dinner in the Asian restaurant. It was pretty good

I really didn’t think I was that picky but no AC in the desert! The high yesterday was 78. They suggested I leave the doors open. At night, I don’t think so!

I ate a little breakfast and had decided today would be just relax by the pool and read. After I finished the book, “The Alchemist,” which I have read before, I knew I needed to book a tour to the Oasis’s. But then decided I better see the salt flats too. I was able to book today at sunset.

Aziz was my guide. He was a very spirited fun guide. He tried to scare me with his driving but he has never met my brother, but some moments reminded me of rolling backwards in. Bronco in High-school with eight of us in the vehicle and no one was hurt. He drove through the salt fields and dunes. Stopped by some camels and one of the sets for Star Wars. I ate some bread that was cooked in the ash.

I had planned to go into town tonight but then Aziz wanted to go with me. Nope

Trying to decide what to do the next couple of days. It’s a bit stuffy here and very few people here. Time for some reading….

Founded in the 9th century BCE by Phoenician settlers from Tyre, Carthage rose to become one of the most powerful cities of the ancient Mediterranean. According to tradition, it was established by Queen Dido, who secured the land through diplomacy and cunning. Positioned on the North African coast near present-day Tunis, Carthage developed into a dominant maritime and commercial power, controlling trade routes across the western Mediterranean.

At its height between the 6th and 3rd centuries BCE, Carthage commanded a vast network of territories spanning North Africa, southern Spain, and parts of Sicily. Its wealth came from trade in metals, textiles, and agricultural goods, supported by a formidable navy. Carthage’s greatest rival was Rome, and their struggle for supremacy led to the three Punic Wars (264–146 BCE). The most famous Carthaginian general, Hannibal Barca, shocked Rome by crossing the Alps with war elephants during the Second Punic War, winning several major battles before ultimately being defeated.

In 146 BCE, after a prolonged siege, Rome destroyed Carthage at the end of the Third Punic War. The city was later rebuilt as a Roman colony and flourished again, becoming one of the most important cities of the Roman Empire in Africa. Under Roman rule, Carthage featured grand villas, forums, and monumental bath complexes, including the impressive Antonine Baths that still overlook the sea today.

Carthage remained a major center through the Roman and later Byzantine periods until it was conquered in the 7th century CE during the Arab expansion. Over time, its prominence faded as nearby Tunis rose in importance.

Today, Carthage is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, where layers of Phoenician, Roman, and later civilizations coexist in a landscape of ruins that reflect over two millennia of history.

I wanted to go to Carthage ruins including the baths and theater. My driver and I negotiated and agreed on a price and also to end the trip at the airport. His English was pretty good. This always make me want to practice Spanish.

My taxi did exactly as I asked, for the price we agreed upon. He wanted to come back to California with me. Lol. I arrived at the airport. The international area is very glam but the domestic area is not. I decided to look around for a little food, and maybe a cocktail. Way in a corner, upstairs I found a place called Areo Club like San Diego. They had pizza and beverages. There are many little smoking rooms. The Muslims may not drink, but they love to smoke. We all have our vises. There were many comfortable looking seats. I found one but realized that is was too close to some rowdy children. Everyone was glaring at them. The staff even put a soccer game on loudly to drown them out. TheMom had no control but as soon as daddy arrived, they were quiet. I still have time to wait, and download too many photos to this site.

I will fly to Tozeur, in the South and stay a few nights, in hopefully, a nice place.

Last night at the Dar, or place to stay, was very loud. Several loud men were having a good time below my room it seemed, with noise and smoke coming up from below. The room was spotless but not much heat. I didn’t sleep well and sometime in the night there was a lot of banging on the doors and a cat fight. I am wondering if I dreamed of the banging on the doors. Another gorgeous day. Perfect temperature.

What I love about travel and sometimes hate is that sometimes you need to cancel one booking because something better comes up or plans change.

I planned to stay in a different hotel tomorrow but realized that it was just down the street. I was struggling getting to the oasis’s near the desert, south of here. I looked at private tours with a driver but flying seemed to make the most sense. But flights are not everyday. So I fly to Tozeur tomorrow until Thursday. I booked a nice hotel and will find fun things to do from there. Excited to have a better plan!!

Tomorrow I will see ruins of Carthage

In the morning, I had breakfast in the roof top bar. Nothing special but I had asked about taking a tour in the Médina. My guide arrived early so I didn’t eat much

My guides’ name was Fatty. He was very pleasant and informative. His native language was Arabic, then English, German and French

I don’t usually like to do tours but I liked him and he was very good. After a few minutes he asked if a German couple could join us. They were also nice.

Fatty took us though the Médina which means old city. He showed us the interiors of some famous palaces. Most of the Medina are small palaces. The large doors opened for horses and camels and large celebrations. The first room after you enter the house is for livestock. Even those on caravans many years ago had a central room for meals and deals and to provide shelter for the animals. There were tiny rooms off the main room for men to stay in.

So many pictures. We walked by the gold souks. Fatty told us about the bride to be’s going in with their Mama’s and picking out jewelry for their dowry. If the husband couldn’t afford it he had to pay back the mother in law.

I wandered down the hill. The hotel Dar Fatma was on the top of the hill. Great views. I had directions for a place for an appetizer and wine and walked very far past it. Had to walk back up the hill. It’s cold when you walk down and hot when you walk up. So many tourists. The Resto was closed when I got there so I decided to go the next place ChatGPT and I found. She has been wrong a lot lately and the shortcut I found was closed off by a wall so back down the hill and I asked a few taxi drivers to take me to Le Pirate. I got dropped off near it, but had to search for it, most signs are in Arabic. I asked a man and he pointed across the street. It was 5 pm so no one was there, but they were open. The English speaking person helped me. ChatGPT is great at translating the menu and has offered her selections of what to eat. She was wrong about this place having wine. She did not know that they didn’t have their papers! Ate some calamari fondue, not so great. They helped me get a taxi and I had to help the driver with directions. Kinda funny especially leaning way into the front seat trying to show him my phone with oncoming traffic and him looking at my phone.

I had grilled grouper that had a side of Cacio e Pepe pasta. Again amazing bread with very good olive oil and olives. The fish was excellent

Back to the hotel, felt like Everest climbing the hill Lol. Tomorrow I change hotels and see some sights. Making plans, also back up plans. Kinda longing for Venice….

Getting very sleepy

I asked where the restaurant was when I was leaving the hotel. The receptionist said to go right and look for a yellow door like the one to the hotel. Four wrong doors later, a handsome man asked if I was looking for the restaurant. I said yes and he pointed to a different door and knocked loudly and towards the top of the door. So this signifies that he is a man. Top knocker and loud, so in the past, a woman would get a man to answer to door or cover herself. The lower knockers and softer are for women.

My suite is beautiful, didn’t know I was having one! Dates, oranges and chocolates. An actual mini bar with alcohol. The hotel is very old with beautiful tiles everywhere. The plainness of all of the white buildings is balanced by the intricate interiors. So much detail.

I made reservations at the hotel restaurant. It was highly recommended as the most authentic restaurant in Tunis. Everything was delicious. I had Bric a l’oeuf. It was puff pastry deep friend with tuna capers and a raw egg. Very tasty. They served bread with chili sauce and a platter with anchovies, capers and olives. My entree was called Kabkabou which was fish, olives, capers, preserved lemon in a tomato sauce. Both were very popular and traditional dishes. It goes very well with their local Rose.

Some of the tiles:

Starting to get sleepy!