Kirkenes

It was nice to move on to the next adventure. A little confusing finding the correct bus. The guides don’t seem to have a lot of patience. I did have a good chat with one of the servers that was especially kind to me.

Bus to the Snow Resort was about 20 minutes through the city. Before. This latest war, Russians and Norwegians freely passed through the border. It’s about 5 miles from Kirkenes. Now it’s completely closed with extra military on both sides. It’s been difficult for the city. It’s a beautiful bright sunny day but super cold because of the wind.

I am on the tour from the boat since I didn’t know that I would be staying here. We looked for the Reindeer first, they were being shy, then the Huskies. Some loved the attention.

On to the Ice Hotel. Just six rooms. It’s being redone this year, bigger more room. It stays up all year with the help of a tarp over it. It stays -4 C about 25 F

Carving in all the rooms
Sami child
Other rooms
The grounds
Norwegian waffle

So I overheard the tour guide berate the receptionist because the Rain deer weren’t there for us as part of our tour so I decided to look for them. No one said I couldn’t hike around their enclosure. I saw the three of them. It looked like they were in a separate enclosure and then I was mad. I thought they lied to me, but when I called them with a Llama call, ( I once owned a Llama named Allegro) they came closer and closer and they were not in a separate enclosure. I gave them a few Rain deer noises and they still came closer. The dogs and deer thought the white hand warmer in my hand was something to eat.

They kept following me until I was at their feeding spot, sorry no food.

Checked out the facilities, sauna and showers etc.

A cow??

Time for the King Crab Experience

Lots of clothing to keep warm
The boat
Fishing huts
Freezing
Crab tooth
A lot of Crab George!!
First serving
The restaurant
The region
Ice Hotel
Not warm
My room
Ice
Just the start to the night
Carrot soup so good
Cod. Ok
Yum. I love Gooseberries

So I wanted to sauna and shower and dry my hair before the big sleep on the ice but ran out of time. Getting nervous about being cold. Hope the sleeping bags are rated for Everest summit weather. I have hand warmers. So many rules too and I hate rules. More later.

Kirkenes

Had the last dinner on the ship last night rain deer cheese and Arctic char. Asked for veggies vs potatoes and they were cooked perfectly. Hard to do on a ship.

Then packing and more Northern Lights. It’s getting much colder.

I am Oz, the great and powerful wizard of Oz
Crab has arrived

So a quick breakfast and then out of the rooms at 8 and off to the next adventure at 9.

It’s been fun people watching. There are the usual annoying people, this one tall bossy lady who pushed her self to the center of attention. Another woman in a walker that really gets around but the damn walker blocks all emergency access, something I look at in crowded rooms. They definitely overpacked the conference rooms. An emergency would have been mayhem. One of the many perks of being solo in a predominantly couple cruise is that I get that single seat.

The couple I sat next to the last two nights is so predictable, he orders for her, they cheers and then they are silent. If he talks to me she looks straight ahead and never says a word

Average age is about 80 but they all seem pretty active. A big group takes the hiking option when offered. All are curious and seeking knowledge.

I have spoke to one younger couple from New Zealand and I’ll see them tonight at the Ice Hotel. I met a lady from Barcelona that was lost the other day.

I did see some children yesterday but they are commuters. Transportation up here gets pretty sparse.

Other interesting facts. The warmest the water gets is 50 degrees. There was a beach yesterday that they called Copa Cabana. They were pictures of hundreds of people in swimsuits on the beach. Another photo in the slide show was young people in one of the floating saunas, diving in the water.

One village nearby has 38 people, b6 dogs and 5 cats.

20% of the men that fish still die fishing, much better than the old days but still a problem

It stays warmer in the area because of the Gulf Stream. Only 150 days under 32 degrees.

First snow storm was last week

Reindeer swim to go inland for the winter.

Onward…

Northern Lights Aurora Borealis

Just after I got out of the shower, dripping wet, it was announced that there was a Northern Lights sighting. I was in no hurry but threw in some clothes, didn’t bother with a camera and went outside.

Yes there was some lights, when I looked at peoples photos in their camera. I ran in to get my phone. It was spectacular!

My fav

So many more pictures. Hopefully more in the next two nights. The temperature is low 40’s but very windy.

Today to see the Northernmost point of Norway

I planned to work on my Instagram projects today but then decided, I really should do the Arctic Cape Expedition. Everything is an expedition. This would be taking a bus for 45 minutes and back and seeing the monument and the souvenir shop.

So I did it. The port is called Honningsvag. It is a beautiful town but can’t imagine 15 feet of snow on the sides of the road and having to walk like you are in a labyrinth.

Another sunny day
Famous dog
Trolls are everywhere
Where the fish dry
North Cape
Latitude 71 1300 miles from the North Pole
Saw none so far
A few of these
Camping options
Trash Art
The bay
Funny program. They are very competitive with Sweden. Two men on skis went through IKEA on the skis up and down stairs on a scavenger like hunt. Hilarious

Last night on the ship. Excited about tomorrow!

Tromsø Gateway to the Arctic

Tromso has about 80,000 inhabitants and is growing 2-3% a year probably people from other parts of Norway, not California.

Seems very industrial as most of these ports are. Many claims to fame, Northern most McDonalds, University, brewery etc.

Had a busy morning on the Internet still fighting and figuring out a new Instagram idea. I could never spend this much time while working. I think a lot of it is Internet issues. Thought of sleeping in but didn’t. Thought of skipping breakfast or lunch but didn’t.

Seems like most afternoons I get a glorious little jet lagged nap and I did so today. Then an excursion on a bus! Went to see the Northern most Arctic Church. It was kind of an A-frame. So windy but not terribly cold. Every once in a while a little spit of rain, but the drops are huge.

.

I keep forgetting to mention that Uo until today, that I have been so sore from walking 20 miles the first two days. Glad I trained for Antarctica because I didn’t for this trip.

A photograph
Leaving the boat
Snow or rain?
Amondsen. First Norwegian to get to North Pole
Art in the square
Zoom in to see the Sauna and how was I going to get there?
Another Sauna
Museum
20 year old mummified from the cold. Just doing an oral exam for free!
Expedition dogs. Way more fur than the Alaskan Huskies
To honor Coach Ditka RIP
Polar Bear
Reindeer
City Art
Dental office
Local street
I need this!
Seafood night!

The sparkling wine was spectacular. It was made and then stored under the sea for two years! Lots of sparkle

I enjoyed the museum today. I had read about the race to the North Pole. Thank you Jeni Popp for the great Adventure book. Our guide tried to push people away from the part of the museum that explains hunting. Not sure why, probably too many complaints for people in the past, but it’s history. Luckily the world decided killing baby seals was not nice and people stopped wearing oilskins ie fur. It was kinda brutal how they killed polar bears. A rifle was rigged and baited with seal fat and when triggered, the bear was thought to kill itself, not buying that. They also over killed walruses, using their tusks for art. I would like to to see walruses in the wild. Apparently Svalbard is the place

Glad to hear that the Brewers put the Dodgers in their place!!

Enjoying a leisurely dinner and talking to you all. Cheese and a liquor made by woman called Feddie Fatlagret Dill-Aquavit! It reminds me of grappa!

I had to laugh at the seafood night. The staff were all excited about it. Tiny head on shrimp with way too many roe. The crab was taken out of the shells, mixed with bread cut and stuffed back into the shells! Were the shells reused too? You can see how left over food is changed into a new dish!

Oct 14 part 2.

The hours on a boat go by slowly but at the same time quickly. I feel so busy then realize, I spent hours trying to connect a Facebook page to a new IG account. Ugg. The views from the boat cannot be appreciated by photos as you will see.

The 7th floor viewing deck. These seats were comfy but a hot commodity. People saved them all day

The person that guessed the actual crossing over the Arctic Circle was just a couple seconds off. She won a flag and the privilege of being the first to be baptized with Arctic water. People actually let a ladle full of freezing cold water be dumped on their head! No thank you. The day was lazy, doing internet stuff and reading books. Finished the book about The All Blacks team in New Zealand and another book on Excellence. Didn’t read quite every word but got the gist of the books. More fiction.

So many shipping yards
The buffet
Airforce base
Another port
Hoping for a sunset

I did wait for dinner and ate at my proper table. I have been spoiled by Berto. I’ll be back at the private dining tomorrow

Onion tart
Local fish, best carrots
Pistachio ice cream and Ice Wine

We had a late port stop so I walked around a bit, not much happening.

This was where one of the soccer games was played!

Around 11 the loud speaker said the Northern Lights were barely in view, I traipsed outside and saw some misty air, nit impressed! Lol. It was along shot that we would see them but we have two more nights.

During the night, it was a bit noisy at the stops, making it hard to sleep.

Starting to see snow
How do they stay? It seems so bleak and it isn’t even winter

I wish I had more to say and show but I don’t. I have a little adventure today and made my plans for the rest of the trip, so I am just enjoying my time away.

Fine Dining

I signed up for a 5 course meal ahead of time so last night was perfect. As we boarded the boat we were given table numbers that we were to sit as on some dinners, not sure why that makes me cringe, but it does.

I don’t think I am a cruiser, at least not yet. When my kids and I went to the Galapagos, I remember we had to sit with another family. They seemed so perfect. A perfectly blended divorced family with perfect kids and everyone got along. And then there is us, divorced mom with two kids. Later, the perfect family fell apart, with the oldest child having a fit and the parents pissed off. Makes me laugh now and wonder why I cared. That was a 100 passenger boat

Another cruise I took was with my son on the Nile. Also a 100 passenger boat in summer with less than 50 people on it. We kept being sat with others until I explained to management that I was here with my son and only wanted to be with him. They obliged.

Then on the Antarctic trip with my brother, again it was a smaller boat and we always had to sit with others.

Usually I enjoy meeting people. I have made friends all around the world but, as I have met many people on this trip already but it’s just awkward for me.

So last nights dinner. There is a little private dining area before the main dining room. There were several tables, so I chose one a little to the side. My handsome server told me it was going to be a slow night. As it turns out there was just one other table served besides me.

It was to be a 5 course meal with an additional cost of $33. It was well worth not eating at a buffet.

Crusty bread and salty butter

Amuse Bouche, oysters and some flavorful sauces

Two choices of starters

Elk carpaccio with Norwegian cheese
Snow crab
Duck for dinner with Raspberries and beets
Cheese plate with jam
Apples and chocolate
Port

It was a delicious meal and delightful with a very attentive server.

I’ll try to be braver and have dinner in the main dining room tonight.

Norway Oct 14

Today we crossed the Arctic Circle. There was a contest to predict the exact time to the second. I was about 5 minutes off.

South Bound Boat horns blast and you are supposed to to wave

The landscape is getting more bleak as expected. It’s 47 but 34 with wind chill and winds up to 26 knots. When I woke up it was 29. The boat is pretty smooth. Later today we will pass through some open sea that is supposed to be a little like the Drake crossing in Antarctica but it is only a couple hours not 48 hours.

Norway Oct 13

Life on the boat is getting to be old hat, lots of eating. Up and down the stairs all day. Last night after dinner we had thinly sliced lamb and something like Grappa. The lamb was like Iberico from Italy. The Grappa I had to let go. There is a viewing deck that has a bar and very comfortable seats looking out to sea.

Dinner

I slept better last night until my Mother called at 2:15 am. She was having fun with her friends. I ended up staying awake reading and finishing another book, by Colleen Hoover. Also reading a business book about the All Black Team of New Zealand and other work stuff.

I was struggling with deciding on the kayak trip this morning or not. It was so cold and rain was predicted. So I didn’t. At our longer stop in Trondheim, I decided to walk to the famous cathedral that was built on top of the grave of former Viking, founder of Catholic religion in Norway and King of Norway.

This is a replica but shows Olaf getting called to war, the winning then killed and then coming out of his grave as a Saint
Great Fall day

On the way…

Four sided piece of art
Love this stuff
Significant bridge

The Old Town Bridge (Gamle Bybro) in Trondheim is one of the city’s most picturesque landmarks. It’s often called the Bridge of Happiness (Lykkens Portal) because of its distinctive red wooden gateways. I felt happy not freezing on the water!

More art
Pretty flowers ended up heart shaped
Near the Church
I forgot about this island. It was a lookout by the Vikings. Severed heads on spikes warned enemies that the same would happen to them. There was also a monastery on this island but all things Catholic were wiped out with Lutheran reform in 1537. Even the cathedral became Lutheran for 500 years. It is Catholic again.

I stopped at a cute shop. I wanted all the clothing and after I had a glass of wine at a cute place, I went back and bought just one thing!

Lots of Pink
Not enough life boats, by the way…
My window, zoom in

I called for an uber and he took forever, I was worried that I would be late, but I wasn’t.

On Airbnb Octagon shape
The pictures do not do justice

Hurtigruten ( the boat)

Ya so I don’t like being denied, but I was. No Tapas for me. I ended up eating at a pizza place.

It was ok. I like to order pizza so I can eat some now and some later but not worth it!

I went back to my hotel, flirted a bit with my new friend, bartender/bellboy/receptionist and the ubered to the boat.

The boarding was a bit confusing. They wanted my luggage but they never said that it will go to my room etc. Waited because you have to watch the Safety film first, then move to another room and wait then go to the dinner buffet.

I bought the beverage package and by tonight, Monday, I thinking done with the buffet.

Actually some of the food is pretty good. I am trying a bit of most things. They are a bit potato and bean heavy which I don’t eat. So another briefing and a little time in the bar before getting to my berth. It’s tiny and I have a room for two with a window! One bed is ready the other is made into a couch. The bathroom is small compared to my brother and I’s bathroom on our Antarctica boat.

Everyone is invited on the back deck to toast a goodbye to Bergen. I enjoyed the Norwegian music

Goodbye

Pretty much uneventful night. I liked the boat rocking a little. I woke up early but the sunrise is about 8:15am. Breakfast and then cruising

I didn’t book excursions on every day but we were able to get off the boat when excursions happened. Today’s was via a tender boat. We went to the town of Urke. Population 38! Cute little town, really didn’t see any residents. Cool house with grass on it

Grain house built so mice can’t get in
Post office
Flowers
Power plant
From inside
For my brother
The store

The town owns the store. The worker inside travels an hour to work here. This store keeps the town alive.

The boat
On the tender

Back on the boat for a little lunch, then briefing and a nap. Before dinner was a quick stop to Alesund, a beautiful city that also had so many fires but in the early 1900’s the King of Germany financed a rebuild in the Art Nouveau style. I stopped off at a Irish pub called Nasty Nellys for a quick Guinness

The boat is big!!

Just ate dinner and we are cruising North.

Bergen

It was an easy flight and the Bergen airport customs and immigration was efficient. I ordered a uber to my Hotel, Home Hotel Havnekontoret. I chose it because it was right on the water, convenient to the sites and it had a beautiful lobby. It was sunny out so I dropped my things in my room and walked to the Funicular to the top of a mountain nearby.

Looks like a rice paddy in Bali
Lights at night
Flying in. Looks like a new bridge being built, look at the second bridge.
Heated floors!

My room had heated floors and a heated towel rack, which I have had at my house recently with the extreme heat. It’s in the 40’s here.

These are famous buildings, my hotel is furthest left

These are long narrow structures that have. Been located here for 500 years. They have burnt down at least 10 times.

From the top

I decided to hike down. It rained a bit but it was so beautiful and peaceful

Norwegian oysters

Stopped at the famous Fish market for lunch

Smoked fish

My location was perfect so close to everything. There are so many restaurants, tourist shops and textiles shops. Not sure which is more famous the trolls or sweaters

Real Polar Bear

This store is in one of the long buildings. They sag in some places and seem to drift in others

Add on a room
I later learned that the pieces of wood that are curved supporting the floor is the root of a tree. The roots are stronger so the trees are used upside down. Same principle is used in boat making.
Always an Irish Pub! In fact at least four spotted since I arrived.

Back to the hotel for a quick nap but before that I go to the tower on my hotel for the view

Side of the row houses
Moss makes me know that I am in the right place
In the tower. Alice in Wonderlandish
My hotel. It was a former residence of someone very wealthy in the trade business

After a jet lagged nap, I went out after dark to find a place to eat. Apparently my hotel provided dinner and breakfast. I looked at the buffet dinner and ick!!

I walked for a long time and finally came back to the fish market. Ordered scallop sashimi which was perfect and fish and chips, which was just ok.

Accidentally brought grilled scallops
Great GandT

Time to go back to the hotel. The hotel is very busy with most likely people I will see on the boat.

I woke up early, had a great sleep. Again, why can’t America have the wonderful sheets and pillows of Europe.

I packed up, went down for breakfast. Probably the best hotel breakfast ever, especially if you have German heritage as I do. Smoked salmon, picked herring, sardines, perfect scrambled eggs.

There was a church nearby, St Mary’s built in 1070, so I visited. It was warm inside. It had also burned a few times but mostly made of stone.

This is Salome receiving the severed head of John the Baptist, painted by Elias Fiigenschoug in 1643. It also serves as a memorial to the merchant Hans Bonhoff, whose portrait appears at the bottom. 

The pulpit
Lots of Gold
More pulpit. Zoom in to see the details
So old
It’s Fall
Born in 1179

Next to the museum next door. Mostly about the Row houses and tapestry

Original floor from 1100’s

The layers of years. 10 fires over centuries and they just kept rebuilding.
These are amazing tapestries.

Here is the story from ChatGPT

These tapestries were woven by Norwegian textile artist Ragna Breivik (1891–1965), using designs by Gerhard Munthe. The ten-piece series took more than 25 years to complete. 

They tell the medieval Norwegian legend Åsmund Frægdagjeva: a brave hero journeys to the trolls’ stronghold to rescue Princess Ermelin. He confronts the fearsome troll woman Skomegyvri, defeats her, breaks the princess’s enchantment, and brings her home. 

Wandered a bit. Now at a cafe near the Opera house hoping to have a meal at a place that I saw last night. If not I have a Plan B and then I board the boat!