First night in Larnaca

It was a little fishy smelling from the ocean a few feet away but probably from the restaurant below. Many people were in the promenade until very late, including loud kids having fun, imagine that? I slept fine and when I did wake up , I just read a book. The bed was very squeaky but I found WD40 and fixed it. This morning I have been making some plans. I rented a car starting tomorrow. Hope I will be ready for wrong side of the road etc. Tonight I will do a sunset cruise. There is a dive shop below my apartment so I will check on a wreck dive that is famous here. I booked a flight hotel on the way home on the 27th in Istanbul.

Morning view
Almost sunrise
Last night

Off to see the sights…

Why so many mosques

The Hagia Sophia has been around for 1600 years and is steeped in history while the Blue Mosque was built to confront and surpass the older one and was built some 1200 years later.

Although very close to each other, the two mosques are entirely different in history and style. The Hagia Sophia traces its origin back to the Byzantine period when it was built as a church over the ruins of Roman temples. In its lifetime, it has been burnt down and rebuilt at least thrice, converted to a mosque and then into a museum and has a unique architectural style unmatched anywhere else in the world. The Sultan Ahmed mosque, on the other hand, is an example of pure Ottoman architecture and was never anything else than a mosque built to dominate and intimidate, but lacking the grace and artistry of the Hagia Sophia.

The Hagia Sophia

Roughly 1600 years ago, the Eastern Roman Emperor Theodosius I decreed that Christianity shall be the sole official religion of his empire. In 380 AD, in his capital Byzantium, he built a wooden church on the ruins of pagan Roman temples. Sadly, the church was burned down twice, but each time it rose like a Phoenix from its ashes, rebuilt by the ruling emperor.

The burning stopped only after the wooden church was replaced by a cathedral of stone by the Emperor Theodosius II. However, what fire could no longer do, was accomplished by mob fury. After its destruction in a riot in 532 AD, the Emperor Justinian built a very remarkable church in his renamed capital Constantinople, in 537AD. This church the Hagia Sophia endures even today as a world heritage site.

Justinian employed a famous mathematician and a professor of mechanics to design and built the church. No expenses were spared, and Justinian himself oversaw the work. On its completion, the Emperor exclaimed “Glory to God who has deemed me worthy of accomplishing such a work! O Solomon! I have vanquished thee’’. Justinian was referring to the great height and unique design of the massive dome and comparing his church to the great temple of King Solomon.

When Constantinople fell to the Ottoman Sultan Mehmed II in 1453, the city was renamed Istanbul, and the Hagia Sophia became a mosque.

Fortunately, the conversion resulted in minimal damage and defacement to the Christian symbols of Hagia Sophia, although they were not periodically restored over the years. However, acknowledging the unique architecture of the church, the Ottomans added many symbols of Islam inside the building without uprooting all signs of Christianity as was the prevailing custom. Recognizing the structure’s importance and its venerable age, the Ottoman architects supported the building outside with massive buttresses.

The exterior is aesthetically pleasing and imposing at the same time. The interior shows you its majestic dome’s unique style, in which a huge circular dome appears to float on a square foundation. Designated as a public museum by Kemal Ataturk in the early 20th century, the structure fully deserves its World Heritage tag.

The Sultan Ahmed

The Sultan Ahmed Mosque was built solely as a mosque. It is massive and dominating, but it lacks the aesthetic grace of the Hagia Sophia.

Early in his reign, Sultan Ahmed I realized that he had little chance of making it to the Ottoman hall of fame due to his poor success in war, the chosen route to riches and glory amongst the Ottoman sultans. So, at the tender age of 17, in the year 1607, he decided to praise the Almighty and be remembered for the magnificence of the mosque he would build to surpass even the Hagia Sophia.

He chose a location facing the Hagia Sophia across the Sultan Ahmed square, next to the , on the spot where the Great Palace of the  emperors had stood, and used their existing foundations and vaults. Sadly, the Sultan lacked the funds that other sultans could amass as war booty. So he could not entirely create what he had hoped for. Yet, the mosque is a unique blend of Islamic and Byzantine architecture and the interior is decorated with 20,000 blue tiles bearing a lotus motif. These tiles give the mosque a grand interior and are the origin of the mosque’s alternative name, the Blue Mosque.

However, Istanbul’s last imperial mosque has a cluttered interior with four pillars supporting its dome thus failing to create the illusion of the main dome of the Hagia Sophia that appears to float! To compensate, the mosque was provided with six minarets against the 4 of the Hagia Sophia. Unfortunately, this act led to more trouble for the sultan since only the Prophet Mohamed’s tomb had 6, and it was sacrilege for any other mosque to have as many. The sultan had to appease the keepers of the faith by paying the cost for a seventh minaret for the mosque at Mecca!

Whether the Blue Mosque fulfilled Sultan Ahmed’s desire to go down in history is debatable because the title of the greatest Ottoman sultan undoubtedly goes to Suleiman the Magnificent the 10th sultan who ruled between 1522 and 1566 when the Ottoman Empire was at its peak. Suleiman built the Sulemanaya Mosque also in Istanbul.

Regardless of the reason for the construction of the Blue Mosque, the world has to agree that the two great monuments facing across the Sultan Ahmed square give Istanbul a vista that has perhaps no equal anywhere else in the world.

Cyprus

This island has been on my bucket list for many years. A Mediterranean Island or country or divided country. Not sure yet, but I will know soon.

The flight was easy. I was only in Athen as my layover for 90 minutes. It’s crazy how these airlines can put out a small meal and beverages in an hour span and also be pleasant.

I was worried about my backpack making it, it was off to the side with the strollers, put me into a tiny panic for a second, almost like a few minutes before when I left my jacket, with my passport on the plane. Only a few rows when I realized what I was missing but then you have to wait for everyone to get off.

I got in the taxi line where I was told five minutes. After ten I was out in a car with another woman. She had been waiting 20 minutes. She gave me a few tips for my trip. She was where for a few days from Paris.

The taxi ride was just a few minutes and 15 euro. The Airbnb was next door to a restaurant so I decided to eat there and wait for my check in time. I was so tired. Had some wine and calamari and mushrooms. The dessert was kinda good!

The view

I found the place quite easily. They had pictures on their messages. A sweet cleaning person was still there. She knew my name and let me in early. She was African, from Zambia. We chatted about my future trip to Zambia and Victoria Falls. I finally told her that I needed to sleep and she could just finish up.

With sunshine

It rained while I was sleeping

Rainbows!

Second bedroom

The place is ok, very clean. Great location right on the water and the promenade.

I hate smelly pillows, better ones in other bedroom

After a well needed nap I walked on the promenade until I found a place that looked good. It’s interesting to see all types of people enjoying an evening stroll. There is some car traffic a few scooters but mostly people walking. It’s the same as so many places in Europe, this is their daily exercise and socialization.

A little vodka and tonic, halloromi grilled cheese and meatballs. Nice salad too

Tomorrow I will see some sights. Transportation might prove difficult.

And so many cats!!

Looks like Lloyd
Lloyd and Dewey

On the plane

Sorry Natalie but you are going to accuse me of a conspiracy theory. Two men with thobes and black agal and ghutrah were behind me. Both were heavily tattooed and had piercings, I had never seen an Arab man with either. If you look it up it is against their religion to have tattoos and most piercings are not allowed. One of their bags said, “This fucking way up.” The other side said, “Suicide Angels.”I looked that up. Not good. It was a band Another Arab in traditional garb has very light brown hair. Such excitement. I always look around and play a certain game that some of you know.

Flight was uneventful. I did pull out a pen to use as a weapon, lol. Now I am flying over the Greek Isles. There are so many. How to choose where to go next year!

I am reading a great book, ‘Never Finished’by David Goggins. He did Seal training in Coronado, is an ultra marathoner, completed Army Ranger School and Airforce Tactil Air controller Training. He is very inspiring!

Greece
Cyprus

Turkey Airport

Nice lounge chairs

This airport is huge. My gate was the furthest one away, well I hope it’s my gate. I will fly Turkish Airlines today to Athens, a quick layover then Larnaca, Cyprus. I bought the ticket on Expedia. I looked on other sites but this was the best for connections. The over night in Istanbul was nice. I love the city, just a bit scary with all the people, men and women and children chanting, waving flags, clearly passionate for their cause.

The taxi picked me up promptly at 4:30. I arranged this with the very attentive desk clerk. On the taxi ride to the hotel, there was so much traffic. The driver didn’t know why but I think it was because of the planned demonstration. He kept wanting to drop me off and have me walk 800 meters. It seems like it would be easy but I have gotten too lost too many times.

So back to today, super long lines. My flight wasn’t listed on the big board. I asked at information, they told me to go to the airlines at check in. No boarding pass but no problem. Checked my big pack back, because I had to. The airlines kept telling me to pay another $100 for my bag and I received many emails and texts to make an offer for an upgrade?!? Crazy. I chose not to upgrade and not to pay the $100. And they didn’t charge me.

The passport control, long lines, then security more long lines then the hike to the gate. Some foreign countries are easy to get along in because they speak some English, not so much here. People seem angry.

Waiting in line to board. Might as well be last! I forgot to mention the guy last night that really wanted to get to know me, he would take me somewhere special. This was during my escape from the demonstrators. I didn’t answer him or talk to him, then he asked if I like men! So I told him that I was married. He backed right off! So funny. At least he had respect for something.

Antusa Palace Hotel and Spa

I get tricked by the word Palace every time!! Maybe it was a few centuries ago. Nice people checked me in then a quick nap

My jet lag rule is no longer than an hour nap and set an alarm! I chose 30 minutes since I have to leave early in the morning.

I put on a modest dress and brought a shawl as first stop was the Blue Mosque. So beautiful.

The ceiling

Just around the corner is The Hagia Sofia, also very beautiful. I planned to go in but a demonstration was just getting started. So many police. So many marchers. It got scary and getting out was difficult. I trailed two men that were trying to do the same. I had to walk against the crowds for at least a mile and what do you do, look at them, smile, keep your head down. One group was calling Americans marshmallows. I finally found a side street with a restaurant and the balloon bread that I wanted.

Call to prayer
Balloon Bread

I am in Istanbul now.

But back to last night. I finally got up and walked to the back. The nice flight attendants gave me some Baileys and then when I got to my seat they told me they found me another seat, aisle and bulkhead but soo quiet! The flight attendant came up to me later and told me she still had to tell the Dad to make his kids behave! Lol! Reminds me of a bare bottom spanking I had to instill upon my children on the side of the road in Ireland.

Had fun finding the gate in Frankfurt. Gates A and Z require the same shuttle. Frankfurt airport is huge and our plane was a ten minute shuttle to the tarmac. So sleepy on the flight to Istanbul. Then a visa and passport control and a hour long taxi to the hotel

I did have a longer layover in Vancouver so I had some delicious crab cakes with Kim Crawford.

Travel breeds patience. Make lemonade out of Lemons!

Seriously, I am seated in my preferred window seat, I chose the seat because there was no one next to me! But I was wrong! Not a super big person, not a smelly one like the last flight, but worse….wait for it…My daughter Natalie will be rolling on the floor in seconds…twin 5 year old boys!!! We haven’t departed yet, but I have been kicked already and they are so f****** loud already. Bring some wine fast and get Disney going!!! Hello 9 hours! I like kids, really I do but why me? Mom and Dad are in the middle three seats with the two or three year old. The family is very nice. So just hanging out with Liam and Johann. Shoot me!

Seat-mates!

It was almost tolerable for awhile. It was daytime so they weren’t tired. Of course they ate the brownies not their pasta. I tried to sleep. They wiggled, and squirmed and yelled and cried. A few stinky farts too. Then the flight attendant gave them full glasses of orange juice. I did not want that spilled on me. I looked at the Dad. To see if would do anything. Nope. So I told the boy to drink up. He did and kept a hold on the glass . I tried to sleep with my jacket over my head and neck pillow.

Ready to Go

Today is the day! At the airport too early. My new back pack is too full. Thank you Julie! Today will be a long day. San Diego to Vancouver to Frankfurt and finally Istanbul. I arrive at 1pm but it will be ten hours ahead. I will go to my hotel, an old palace and then maybe to the Blue Mosque and the Grand Bazaar. Just have to see what is safe.