Zimbabwe and Botswana

Today is Botsawana day. Up early to catch a shuttle to the border. Same drill. Get stamped out of one court and stamped in the next. Pretty easy. It was an hours drive. Got on the two deck boat and cruised for an hour. Saw some hippos and water buffalo and birds. Kinda boring. Buffet lunch of nearly inedible over cooked food and then it began to pour. I chose not to do the game drive. Animals hide when it rains. Drive back going through customs and immigrants again easy. I asked the driver to drop me in town. Thought I might get a beer and shop. Too many people trying to sell stuff and then if you don’t they get mad. So back to the hotel. It was sunny until I got to the pool so hanging with my new fav bartender Chris!

Last night was the famous Boma, a drum show. Dancers, drummers and dinner. It’s hard at these things to be single. They forget about us.

Looks good but….
Let’s roast a pig!!
This guy asked for my number

It was a fun and interesting night. I chatted with one of the drummers for a bit after. This is their job and they enjoy it.

Todays pics:

Impalas
Bird drying her wings
Hippo
The boat

My time is winding down. Dinner tonight and massage. And facial before I fly out tomorrow

Victoria Falls from Above, from Zambia and from Zimbabwe sides

Time for my Microlight ride. My pilot was a nice, very strong man from Durbin, nice accent too. It was almost too windy to go, they told me. I can’t imagine it being windier!

Not my pic

My driver took me out of Zimbabwe and into Zambia, both times escorting through customs and immigration. Had to leave my backpack and camera but there was no way I would have let go of the bars. It was super scary, and exhilarating at the same time, kind of like riding a horse down the beach with no saddle or stirrups….. oh I did that and fell off and was injured for two years!

We took off super fast, no time to change my mid. The wind was so strong that I was afraid to turn my head. If I did I felt like my helmet and headset would fall off.

I have never done this or hang gliding or wind sailing so I imagine a great deal of strength is needed. I cringed when he took one hand off the big bar that guided us. I finally was brave enough to look down. It was breathtaking. The rains have made everything so green. Every shade of green, even those that don’t go together. Ha Ha. Inside joke about my ex husband. I think he reads this. The wind kept causing ups and downs and sideways no word for it, just turbulence. Not for you Sweet Natalie. The view of the Falls was unbelievable! The thunder and mist and rainbows!! I was still gripping for dear life, which I imagined death would be quick. I have faced death before, in a category 5 Hurricane in Tonga and recently in a near head on collision in Costa Rica. I have lived a perfect life, but there is more to experiences.

The ride was over in about 20 min. Toward the end we were over the Zambezi River where I was last night. I could see lots of groups of hippos in the water.

Pictures and a video in 24-48 hours!

Came back over the border the same way and stopped at an art market. The people are too pushy so I left. Back to the hotel to experience Vulture Culture.

For 25 years this lodge has been feeding the vultures. Eight of the eleven species are almost extinct so this way they get a little snack each day at 1pm.

Well that’s a stork
The hole in the bottom of the nest
Kudu at the water hole

Zimbabwe Victoria Falls Day 2

For up early to have a chance to see animals at the watering hole up close.

In here
Birds
More birds
Even more birds

Just birds for two hours but my guide was delightful. He thinks that because of recent rains then animals don’t need extra water. It was peaceful.

He did tell me about these yellow noisy birds. The male builds a nest, the female inspects it and if she doesn’t like it she rips it down. If she does, they both go inside from the bottom of the next, mate and have babies and live happily ever after.

The hut was way over to the right mid photo
Dining area
The birds

Zimbabwe Victoria Falls

Experiencing some big bugs right now at 7pm. Back at the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge.

Cute birds

Just came back from a beautiful boat cruise on the Zambezi River. It divides Zambia and Zimbabwe and it’s the fourth largest river in Africa. There are many hippopotamus’s and crocodiles swimming around. I saw several this afternoon.

Boat tour
Hippos
Crocodile
Tomorrow
The luxury deck
More food
Sunset
More sunset
Entertainment by the crew
The Safari Camp

Onward to Victoria Falls

I set my alarm for 5:30. They decided I needed to get up At 4:50am. Oh well. Got ready, a little coffee and took the bus to the airport. I decided to beat the crowds. Had to go through security shoes off etc then pass port control then security again finally in the waiting area for an hour or so. I walked up towards the gate. There were a lot of people milling around. One guy said some town and Victoria Falls. He hustled us into line to wait 20 minutes then wait on the bus for 20 minutes then board and the plane was mostly empty. So I did get my own row. This was an old and work out 787. Ran hard and put away dirty. My tv kept turning off and the light kept tuning on. Crazy. I was watching for Kilimanjaro and saw it!!!

Killi
Nice clouds. Hope they stay away

Easy getting off the plane, people were still pushing to get ahead. America is so civilized. Visa for all three countries in one.$50. Passport stamped. Guy with my name at the exit. Cold water and AC on the short drive to Victoria Falls Safari Lodge.

Watering hole

Vulture feeding daily
Birds for Mom
More vultures
Burger

I need a nap. Instructed not to leave window or doors open because of the monkeys and baboons. Apparently they have tetanus but not rabies. Luckily I am vaccinated against both!

Travel Day

I knew this would be a long day. There was no better way to get from Benin to Victoria Falls without a long day. If I kept to the original plan, it would have been a long drive from Benin through Togo to Ghana and more risks of delays.

So I took a shuttle to the airport. Remember very few people speak English. It’s a ten minute ride. I kept some old dirty bills for a tip. I gave the rest of my Benin money to my new friend Ezekiel last night.

So I walk in the airport. It’s small. First guy points me to the left, to where, nothing is there. I see a line up area for Ethiopia Air so I go towards it. I have arrived two and a half hours early. I follow the path, no one is in line. Passport control was easy. I walk up to the check in desk, like every other airport. I had walked past about 7 people that worked for Ethiopia Air, no one even looked at me. I had 20 pounds on my back and white skin and blond hair!

At the desk, two ladies looked at my like I was a fugitive and waved me back. Then the other 7 were in a tizzy. They started straightening their barriers and looking official. One man asked if I had insurance. I asked why? Maybe he meant a visa? Then he asked for that, nope I’ll get one upon arrival. He finally let me pass. The same ladies were at the check in. Now they were nice. I had to weigh my back pack. They let it go, probably because they didn’t see my smaller one.

The day before, I chose my seat. Most of the plane was empty so no big deal if I had a bigger back pack. I chose a row way in the back so I could spread out and sleep.

Walked toward the gate and I was stopped by a woman questioning my backpack. I just pointed at the nice ladies and said they let me though and that my small backpack was my purse. She let me pass.

It was a short walk to the gate. Typical duty free stuff. Who buys that stuff anyway? A tiny coffee place before the three gates. I spent time researching my family tree, really!

As it got closer to departure time, I moved to the gate. People were getting so pushy already, so I waited to board til almost the end. Buses to the front and the back of the airplane. Once I got to the front of the line, they told me to wait. I am trying to be patient.

I take the bus, board the plane and it is utter chaos. It’s packed! People pushing, not wanting to move for others, no room in the overhead compartment. When I finally get near my seat, someone is in it, but my mistake. I am in the next row. I ask the two women in my row to take my small bag and wait for a flight attendant to help me. She immediately tells me to shove my bag in an overhead and it fits!

The woman next to me has no space, nor voice, nor phone volume awareness! It’s also very smelly on the 5+ hour flight! Oh well.

So when I checked in they also gave me a voucher for a hotel and meals. I was confused but didn’t bother to ask. I had booked a hotel already because my days of sleeping in airports is over. I would wait and see.

As I got off the plane, I wasn’t sure where to go, passport control or Transit. I started towards transit then went back and asked. Passport control it was. My very soft spoken agent got me through and told me to get on the big bus. No visa needed.

So I kept walking, stopping at another desk and she motioned me on, next guy did the same. Got on the bus, super crowded. We had to be seated and drove about 7 minutes to the hotel. It’s a really nice hotel. I had booked a Best Western, violating my box rule but I was pretty sure that I would need a good shower and bed.

I have had fun with this before, waiting in line for an hour or so. A nice man came up to me and I said that I just wanted to find a restaurant while everyone else checked in. He said sure, just wait a minute. Sure enough he came back and escorted me to the voucher buffet. I said no thanks, he said just try it. He took my passport and I was worried. No buffet for me. I looked and there was nothing palatable. He came back and sure enough had my room key and passport and escorted me to my room.

I only had 100’s so I tried to get change. Guess I’ll just give him a hundred tomorrow if I see him. It was worth it.

There was a Chinese restaurant but it was closed. Went to the adjacent building and has some Italian. Now sleeping for 5 hours noon to Victoria Falls.

Third World Travel Advice

Do it! But here are a couple of tips.

Always travel with a half a roll of toilet paper in a small ziplock. Wipe disinfectants, not hand spray. Old closed toed shoes for markets, especially if the country has a lot of dogs roaming around. West Africa does not. Leave them at the end of the trip. Keep some clothes at home, those that you say you will never wear again and to bring to a trip like this, that you also plan to leave. Sometimes you keep getting them back, right Megan? I still have those white shorts. I love the narrow or cuffed pants so nothing drags on the ground.

Ask to take a picture.

The people selling their wares like to haggle for the most part, it’s flirting! Natalie rules the Souks in Marrakech. Most of all embrace the culture, the people, the smells and the interesting food!

Great day and evening

When do you get to just go down any rabbit hole and look around. I feel like that is how my Day has been. I looked up relatives, like my grandmother’s sister who I think was actually her mother. I wrote to their grandson or rather great grandson. I think I have proof now that my grandmother was actually conceived in Vienna as we suspected.

Earlier I researched geology in Wisconsin and glaciers and Kettles and Moraines. I explained to my server, who wanted to know what I was reading, that as a science major, I never had time for geology, culture, world religions etc and now I do. It was fun giving him a little “ get you shit” together talk. “Just do It!” “Don’t play it Safe.”

And I had time to get an outline in my children’s book about Lloyd the cat.

Time to sleep!

February 15, my Birthday and Day 2 Benin

So many calls and well wishers from the States and various parts of the World! Thank you!

Today was meant to be a day of nothing and it pretty much was. I didn’t sleep well, again. Room was too hot. Thermostat was set at 62 but it was way warmer than that, like 90! Finally took a pill. Uggg hate to.

I slept until 11! Coffee in the lobby and then I got brave and decided to walk to the beach, alone. I knew there was a beach and a restaurant. Obama Beach. The neighborhood is nicer than I’ve seen. It just took a few minutes and not too hot. It’s in the 90’s with 90% humidity but maybe I am getting used to it.

Clearly a locals place and one for picnics. It’s Saturday. Found the restaurant and a nice woman asked if I wanted to buy anything thinking she was selling souvenirs. She was the owner/hostess/server/buswoman. She spoke a little English. I ordered a beer, came without a label… but she opened in front of me. Maybe this is true recycling???

1/2 Packers attire of the day
Chicken. No hormones here either
She wanted me to stay all day, so far I was in for less than $2.00
Cute dog
Pool time
With Rose
Need to recreate this!
More bday pics
Avocado and shrimp
Shrimp and chorizo or maybe pork or maybe fish ,who knows?

End of the day. Relaxing and not drenched in grimy sweat. Tomorrow a market.

Thanks again for all the Birthday wishes!

Benin day 2 continues

Officially named the Sacred Forest of Kpassè or Kpassè Zoun, the semi-wild woodland is dedicated to King Kpassè, the 16th century ruler of the African kingdom of Whydah that once encompassed the area of modern-day Ouidah. He was being chased and did not want to die, so he fled into a forest and turned into a tree. The pythons delayed the attackers and he got away. His line is still in power

There are many sacred statues some honoring metal workers, some dedicated to to thunder, fertility and one keeping Small Pox at bay.

Fertility
The sacred tree

Our next stop was the end of the slave trade road. It is now a meeting area for the Voo Doo ceremonies held once a year.

Next stop the Village of Ganvie

This stilt village, located in the lagoon of Lake Nokoue, was created for the Tofinu people to stay safe from slave hunters. It has become part of their culture and way of life. The teetering houses, schools, churches and other structures form a ramshackle village. The villagers live almost exclusively from fishing. The men fish, the women sell the fish. Kids are on their own when not in school.

Polio victim
Traps for fish

I was not feeling well. The first stop was someone’s house. This woman is an entrepreneur. She opened a souvenir shop shop, sells beverages and rents out two rooms with bathrooms. My guide, started to say we can see the toilet first and I immediately said, can I use it? Lol. Yes a toilet, no pipes to or from the toilet. I know the drill, just pour water from the nearby bucket to flush, like India, but they have pipes, this just went into the lake where they fished.

Saved me
Bedrooms 1 toilet here was just a bucket
Bedroom 2
The view
A little land for chickens
Kitchen
She was rich so she had electricity,some had solar, most nothing. Fires were wood burning

About 35,000 people live here, some have never left. They like to have many kids so that they can help with the chores!

In her living room

A traditional was that if you were in someone’s house and they didn’t offer you water, you were not welcome. Then you had to drink the water or pretend and dump some on the floor. Tough choice.

Meeting space
School
Their monument

Sometimes the water is 4 feet higher!
Getting clean water from a well
With a baby on her back
Just put your dress up and sail
Close proximity

I really wanted to go my hotel was hot and tired and sweaty and not feeling great, but they insisted that I see the monuments.

One we drove by, it was of a guy that brought communism to Benin for a few years. They didn’t like it. I asked why they kept the monument up and he said because it’s History! But not in America.

Women Warriors did some fighting
Spacious and clean

Hotel is nice but a bit stuffy. AC did not work great. I think they fixed. I find an insurance card in the electricity saver where you put you key, works great to keep the AC on when I am gone.

A pool!

They did have a Valentines celebration here. It was very festive. Time for bed!