Category Archives: Uncategorized

Same driver and new guide picked me up on time. We drove straight to the border. For many years I kept all the paperwork, tour tickets, train tickets, even toilet paper from Spain when I was 15! ( Because it was like gauze paper) Now I toss everything out( my kids will thank me someday) but I know to keep the visas. They needed them today to get out of Togo. They stamp the passport so I don’t know why they still need them. Today they also verified my profession, twice. The second guy at immigration told me he has a tooth ache. We both laughed!

First stop today Temple of the Python.

They are sacred and a part of Voo Doo. 70% of Benin people practice Voo Doo. A Catholic Church was built straight across from it. You can believe in both religion. There are mosques in Benin but not in Togo. One of the additional guides, not sure why they dilute the profits, was Moslem but believes in Voo Doo too. There are other religions too and they all get along, says the guide. You can make a wish at the python temple. They are fed one a month. All are let free from time to time. Most come back or the villagers bring them back.
There is a big basin that gets filled with water every so often by virgins. My guide was hard to understand. She spoke very fast

They call Quidah, the Vatican City of Voo Doo. Sacred Python area, marks the Voo Doo center. Catholic Church faces it, on purpose, not as a challenge but as consenting.

We picked up another guide. He was the Muslim and he was very funny. He took me to the Slave auction area. Here the slaves were sold and immediately branded. They waited in a holding area where they had to crouch down and they were gagged. They were fed a couple pieces of bread and water every 48 hours. If too sick or weak they cut off their arms or hands and they were put in a pit to die. If they lived and were strong enough, the walked around the Sausage tree three times and walked a couple more miles to the ships
On the ships, they also had women lie on top of the men to hopefully produce and third slave.
I researched all of this and can find nothing. These are stories passed down generation to generation.

Next stop: Sacred forest for kings. First king disappeared and became a tree. After that the kings were the sons of the previous king. There is still a King but just for pageantry, like the UK and the is a Governor like a Prime Minister.

More pics when my phone charges!

It would have been my Dads 85th birthday today. We celebrated a lot of birthdays together since mine is tomorrow.

Not much sleep last night. I should be over the time change by now but apparently I am not, then I heard noises and the curtains moving. So I am up early having coffee and breakfast with this view.

Today I go East to Benin. I was actually there yesterday for a second in the roundabout at the border.

More adventures today.

A great nights sleep. Up early and had a little breakfast. Made me a little queasy. Hopefully I am ok for the day.

We started at the Fetish market, not that kind of fetish, but Voo Doo.

A person who is sick comes to the market for a reading by a priest. He determines if a spiritual or disease problem. If disease, they are sent to the hospital. If spiritual the priest will use dead animals and herbs for a cure. It was fascinating.  And very smelly. Snakes, monkey heads, parrots etc.

A priest did a blessing for me and offered several types of talismans for me to buy. I bought a small Voo Doo stature to cure me of many ails.

I bought a Voo Doo doll. Hope she brings me what I asked for.

We are back in the Land Cruiser with AC in the back, heavenly.

I am wondering when third world countries decide to fund trash disposal.  Is it when taxing is high enough, tourism dips, or something else? Ghana seems to be cleaner, but Togo ahead is other ways. Ghana has taller buildings and more modern buildings. Togo has a bigger port.

Most people look fresh and clean, but I feel dusty and dirty the minute I step outside, well even inside this hotel too.

Sheets and bedding and rooms remarkably clean. The sewer smells in this hotel, but the shower is great. The sink faucet swings around and the water flow is poor. AC is nice and cold.

Only American food franchise that I see is Pinkberry. No Dominos, sorry Richard Bailey

Just saw huge Bank. Banking West Africa. A very modern building.

Next to the Palace de Lome 

Built by the Germans in the late 1800’s. Then it was the split after WW1 to French and English. Later the residence for the Prime Minister of Lome. It was closed down after a massacre. Rebuilt and now a museum of local artists. I learned new history and culture. Like the NanaBenz.These ladies that got rich from selling fabrics. They were grandmothers that drove Mercedes with their new wealth. Their different fabrics mean different things, like a single woman or the get out fabric, “You go out, I go out.” Meaning you cheat on me, I cheat on you.

The Tuts from northern Togo were interesting. These structures tool 3-4 months to build.

In my world, I usually know how each day will unfold. It’s nice to travel and not know. The surprises are so welcoming yet they start as uncomfortable.

Madagascar had so many surprises, like the snorkel suv that just drove in the water and being told to hop up on a Ox cart to go on to the next adventure. Love these surprises. Adventure!

We drove about 30 minutes and down and around some dirt roads and landed at  a Slave House.  This area a structure was 150 meters from the ocean during the 22 years that Africans were kidnapped and forced into slavery. The house was simple, four rooms at each corner and a center room. The would be slaves would have to wriggle under the house to their holding cell and then they were kept in dark, cramped quarters for several weeks. The area was about 4 feet tall, again no latrines, no clothing and chained together. There was a hatch in the center room where food was thrown down. The guide wanted me to go check it out. I politely said no. As always I could buy all sorts of souvenirs.

I also learned something disturbing from some research that I did today….this is hard to believe, but some of the African Kings actually allowed their people to be kidnapped in exchange for power and gifts like thrones that they didn’t have, ships filled with treasure and other things. So pathetic! Other kings in battle sold their captures to be sold too. How’s that for some history?

A few miles away we came upon a lake, there were canoes, one was waiting for us.  A little confusion of if I take my socks and shoes off or walk in the water. Yup take the shoes off and wade into the muddy water and get into the boat.  Someone rowed a bit because it was shallow, then a Mercury motor (from my hometown of Fond du Lac Wisconsin) motored us across. There were several beautifully dressed ladies and babies on the boat. Most people ignore me but one cute little boy kept staring. He would not smile!  There were also two motor bikes on the canoe.  

We arrived in Togoville in about 15 minutes. After putting my sweaty socks over my sandy feet we walked up to the church. Notre Dame du Lac.  It was built by the Germans in 1910 as Protestant Vhurch, then it became a Catholic Church some time later.

Pope John Paul 2 was here in 1985 to speak with a woman that had a vision from the Virgin Mary in 1940. In the church, they replaced Jesus with Mary at the Lords Supper above the alter.

In case you need a visual, at this point I am dripping in sweat and thinking can we be done and find AC???

I have learned from a NOLS leadership adventure that if there is an endpoint, one can handle whatever is served up. Shout out to Bob Schultz for encouraging me to do that trip. Speedy recovery to you.

Seems like we are meandering in a deserted village annoying all the cute little goats. Make me remember goat yoga that I experienced once.  Why?  Just why?

Then we stopped by some temples to learn about some statues and sacrifices.

The next one was was for men. They could bring their problems, make the correct sacrifice, like blood, fruit or animals and then your problems went away.

There was one for the women too. She was sheltered because woman are sacred here, as they should be! 

Both alters really stunk. I asked why the goats didn’t come  eat the food,  they just didn’t but dogs did.

Lastly the souvenirs. I bought a vegetable dyed picture.  At each location there was a sign in book. Not sure why?

Last stop the beach in Aneho. Near the border where the river and sea converge. Pretty water, dirty beach. Men and women fish here

Music today reggae with a little Harry Belafonte style mixed in

Street art:

Can’t get enough!

Got back to the hotel, after a successful ATM transaction and relaxed a bit. Had dinner and worked on this blog. It’s a lot of work!

Will go to Benin tomorrow with my guide William’s brother. I’ll be there a couple days. Hopefully a little nicer hotel.

We got back to the hotel about 10. I think Asante wanted to go to a karaoke bar, but I needed some rest. And I was hungry. The fish we had was tasty, but so many bones. I was taught by my parents at a very early age to eat fish carefully, sifting it through your teeth, checking for bones. There were too many, so it was a chore. The Africans just ate them right down!! I am getting more cautious with every year. Did I want a fish bone in my throat?

So back at the hotel, had a nice G and T and a pizza. I like pizza because I can just eat the top off and have it for breakfast.

My driver was arriving at 2am. Hard to decide if I should try to sleep. Each night here has been loud. I am over the courtyard and pool and guests have been staying up til 2 or 3 am. I probably slept and hour and then packed up.

Driver plus one were there on time, she might have been a chaperone. Both were in uniform.

Thank God for the border crossing with the immigration officer. He was a friend of the guy that helped me with my visa. Also knew Asante. Everyone knows Asante! After a 3 hour drive, without AC, we arrived at the border, they were waiting for us. We went into the office to leave Ghana then into the office to get into Togo. Needed yellow fever certificate. Mine expires in Aug. So much easier to go with this guy than the guy I had chosen and canceled and much less expensive. The drive to the hotel was about 20 minute past the shipping yard, so many Maersk containers. I was able to check in at 6:30 am. The seaside room is a bit shabby. It had great reviews. Hmmm.

Had some coffee and waited for the tour driver. I am the only one on the tour! Driver and guide and me. Just because they speak English doesn’t mean it’s easy to understand. French is spoken here because it was a French Colony. Ghana was an English Colony.

So within 10 min of tour, we got rear ended. Our car was stopped. Driver and guide got out and so many other men came running to see the damage. And then lots of arguing and finger pointing. It was clearly the huge truck’s fault behind us and just when my neck was feeling better. No one asked how I was! The men looked at the vehicles like it was the first fender bender they had ever seen.

Finally after an hour of waiting for another car we drove for an hour and a half to the the tallest mountain in Togo. They expected me to climb it. No mention of this in the brochure. 90 degrees and 90% humidity. I tried. Too slippery in a dress and sandals and big red spiders. 986 meters tall, 3200 feet, but too steep for me today. So we drove up to the top. One and a half lanes on a very curvy, steep road, hence the incessant horn beeping. I was annoyed. Cell, tv and radio towers, would be a beautiful view but it’s hazy today. Nice jungle some trees look like the Baobab’s of Madagascar
Regee music compared to the rap music yesterday.
Togo has way more scooters and tuk tuks, making traffic crazy. Seems like they might be a little more well off than Ghanaians.

Next stop a Chateau.

Graffiti everywhere but it was till stunning and cooler up so high

Time for lunch. I decided on local food. The white stuff is yam. They take large sticks and pound it until it resembles dough. Then you use you left hand to scoop it up and dip it into the soup. Was good at first. Washed it down with a local lager.

Had to use the bathroom, I have seen much worse!

They wash their hands like the Ugandans. There is a basin brought to the table and some soap and a pitcher of water. Simply dip your hands in the dirty water, lather with the soap and someone pours water over your hands! Voila! Clean sterile hands, ready to operate! Where did that water come from? I prefer the old handy wipes/baby wipes made popular during covid.

I once wondered why my Dad didn’t want to travel. It was actually a rant, because I couldn’t believe he wasn’t into travel. He later got the bug. And then he died in Budapest!

I always wanted to see women carrying things on their head, ride an elephant etc. He said you could see all of the in Ladoga Wisconsin. He was Wrong!

Next stop the famous waterfall! Kpalime! It’s an underground waterfall, meaning you must walk down a lot of steps in hot humid weather to see the waterfall, again in a dress and sandals. It was beautiful and worth the sweaty effort. I wished that I had a suit. My guides, half my age couldn’t keep up with me. Mother’s Day hike is coming dear family! We will pick a different date since Nana will be here!

The ride back was so hot, I asked that the AC be directed to the back seat. The guide changed seats with me to the front, but then the AC stopped working. My head was bobbing with jet lag! Two hours back to the New Robinson Hotel.

Back to the hotel. The waves sound perfect. The shower was well needed. Dinner was Greek salad and tenderloin with mushrooms and green pepper corns. Both were wonderful.

Too much food. They hate wasted food so I hope they send it to China or Africa. Tomorrow is more Togo!

So the driver yesterday works for some VIPs and takes people to jail. That is why we saw the handcuffs! He also had several sirens and red and blue lights that he could turn on when he wanted to pass someone!

This is a video from last night. There is a song that I missed about waterpolo and Asante and I laughed that I had to come to Ghana to see waterpolo and that I should sing the song to former CHS coach Randy Burgess!

After the depressing history of lesson we were on our way to a school that some of the kids went to that were on the waterpolo team. It was started by a Brit, then he went bankrupt and another guy took it over. There are 500 high school kids. It was a special day of contests and fun so they were dressed in all red, yellow, blue or green.

We had a quick tour, met the young female directors from England and Australia and some of the kids. The home ec department made us some Ghanaian food consisting of chicken, red rice, a salad and some yummy hot sauce.

The princess of Monaco sponsored the pool.since my son was a Lacrosse kid, I had never been to a water polo match. The kids, boys and girls practice a couple times a week after school. It was impressive to see how the kids actually listened and learned as the coaches taught them new things.

I can really see how this program will benefit so many kids. It seems that people in Ghana are ambitious and want to success. They just need a little help.

I tried to take some slo-mo pics to see the activity on the side of the road.

Everyone was talking about going to the Peace Tree after practice. I had no idea what that meant. It was the tree in front of a house of two of the students with a very friendly, and generous dad. He wanted to make farm to table food for us and have us try his Palm wine. The wine tasted a little like sake and was even better with some Guinness in it, really! After a long wait, because he wanted everything hot, we had fried plantains, fish and salsa.

Then the singing began!

I am in Overwhelm mode! Is that a word? I am numb, stunned and exhilarated. Again I apologize for spelling, grammar and any other errors. When I write this blog, I am usually tired, have poor internet, dim light or drinking, mostly all of the above and tonight is no exception.

Coffee and breakfast to start.

Asante ordered a driver and car for the day. I didn’t know why, but I do now. He was to pick me up at 8 but he was delayed because of an interview. Publicity is very important for the cause. I always except everything in Africa to be delayed as I said before. No worries. I didn’t really know the plan of the day, but again Trust is important in Africa.

As I got in the Toyota Land Cruiser, I was happy to feel the AC. I noticed some handcuffs. Hmmm. We started to drive and at some point I heard that it was a 2-3 hour journey and some of it would be on dirt roads! The drive was treacherous, dodging other cars, passing on the right and left, crazy but it seems to work!

We were headed to the Cape Coast Castle. This is where future slaves were held until the ships came in. They were called castles to entice the Europeans that it was a prestigious place. They were under constant attack because competing countries wanted to take over the castles and thus take the slaves. The castles are 360 years old. They were bright and airy compared to the dungeons below. Conditions in the holding cells were horrific. Men and women. were separated. They had only a tiny window. No ventilation, no latrines, no clothing, no blankets and many were chained together. Those not thought to live were in a separate place left to die. Women were chosen and raped at will. Excrement was several feet deep. Pretty brutal.

When the ships come in the Africans walked through to Door of no Return, never to return to Africa. Survival rate to American was 60%, which I doubt that it was that high.

We had a quick refreshment in a cafe that 360 years ago was the kitchen.

Then a walk to see someone Asante wanted to meet but he wasn’t there. It was an expat hangout and beautiful

Recycling at its finest. These are tires!

Waterpolo tomorrow!

The whole reason that I am here is to see what The Rotary Club of Coronado and I can do with Asantes dream and project.

The boys that I just met have been vetted from the beaches. The beaches is where many homeless people live. Some kids attend schools. There are many single families with just one parent trying to eke out a living, selling something, fixing something or some other. Most look industrious. Most look happy. I don’t see evidence of drug use, but it is here. I see a few beers later in the day.

Even though, they live right on the beach many are afraid of the water, even the fisherman. Drowning is a major cause of death.

Several years ago Asante swam out in the ocean and attracted the attention of some boys. He asked if they knew how to swim. They didn’t. He asked if they wanted to learn and they did. After a few lessons they found a pool, continued to swim and then he taught them waterpolo, a sport that Asante excelled at, as in Silver medal Olympiad. Other boys took notice and wanted to be a part of the group. This was after school, weekends and holidays. They were expected to go to school.m if they wanted to learn to swim and play waterpolo. This also meant that they might get to travel and compete with other teams and maybe go to the Olympics!

But pool time costs money. Of course these boys did not have money. At some point, girls were allowed to learn to swim too.

We talked with the boys. Mostly Asante since they were so shy. Maybe they never met a white woman before. They all shook my hand. We took some group pictures

To get to the beach we walked through a kind of artist area, many textiles! The colors were gorgeous. I wanted to buy many of the paintings too, but I am traveling light.

The paths are littered with rocks, glass, garbage and dog feces. People are trying to sweep it up. Pot holes are filled with muddy water. Asante knows everyone. I am learning the secret handshake! Ha Ha.

My mind is reeling as how to help. I observe the slight struts of the boys. You can feel their edge and confidence. You can see the younger boys look up to the older ones in this group. There is respect. I think this is what it all about. This is one way to raise a few out of the same old rut that their parents and neighbors are in. It’s a tiny step but impactful. Coronado did a similar thing with their Safe cards, trading cards of the athletes. A slight elevation, mostly in the kids’ mindset, but something positive.

The kids, with Asante’s coaching, play in water polo matches nearby and they have gone to Brazil. There was a trip planned to Italy but the visas didn’t go through. Remember they needed birth certificates and birth places to fill out the passport forms. That entailed talking with neighbors and family and asking questions, like was there a drought that year, what trees were blooming, who was the president of the US. The boys were asked questions like how do you get to school? On a bike or walking, determining poverty level.

There must be Rotary grants etc to be found to really get this up and running well.

Asante dreams of his own pool and locker room.

At the impromptu music gig, the pictures on the walls were there for environmental awareness the waters are filthy. when the fishermen get fish they have to discard all the plastics and clothing that is mixed in with the fish.

Here are some of the signs in the bar:

A mind evoking day! Dinner at the hotel. Very vivid dreams, awake at 7 to start the day!!

What a day! Slept a little and got ready for the day. Breakfast at the hotel. Ok Buffet.

Our meeting time was 10 am but things happen on African time. I expected that. I am reading several books at the moment. So I was fine reading. Asante picked me up around noon and we headed out. I needed some money. He mentioned that I could get a better rate through a guy he knew. By the end of the day, I realized that he had a guy, or girl for everything. It was indeed a better rate, but it felt a little sketchy walking into a room, past a room, past a shop. I offered a new $100 bill and an old one. I was testing the system. They wanted a new bill and said that I could cash the old one in Zimbabwe. They take anything! Kinda funny.

Then we went to a place that had been a rich persons polo field in the day, not sure what day, but now it was a museum for their former first Prime Minister and the same man was the first President of the country. I learned a lot about him.

Osagyefo Dr. Kwame Nkrumah was his official name. He was born in 1909, same year as my Grandfather. He helped Ghana, formerly known as The Gold Coast become independent. It had been colonized by the British, hence English speaking. He was quite a visionary, believing in African unification, without violence. He spent time in prison. He was married twice, the second time to an Egyptian woman, to move the country forward with Egypts money, There were five attempted assassinations on his life but he died of cancer. When he was promoting peace in Vietnam and China, a coup d’état ousted him. He died in Romania. The pictures and museum is where his life is honored and laid to rest in the third location. He was moved here after the monument was made. Much more befitting for this man. Much of his work inspired Martin Luther King.

There were called castles for the capturers of slaves, bigger the better, but if you were African, this was the last place that you ever saw in Africa.

Next a little walking around some shopping for the locals and a few tourists. We were waiting for the kids to get out of school.

We didn’t have to wait too long, in came about 8 prepubescent boys. They were shy and cute. A few adults started playing some music. One man tied his body up like a knot. I was so mesmerized that I only have one pic.

I made it! After I got off the plane, I walked to passport control and then someone called my name. He was in uniform and he was the miracle worker. He shook my hand and said to go through passport and then come over by him. I did and then he wanted my passport and the visa on my phone. I waited a minute. He went behind the desk, called me back up, asked for $200 and walked me out! Probably illegal but it worked! Asante picked me up and took me to the hotel. All good. It’s 4 am. The Eagles won and I will be ready at 10 am!!