Tuesday

The flight was uneventful. I think the man next to me had never been on a plane because he videotaped almost the whole flight. It was super foggy/smoggy so you really couldn’t see anything until the Himalayas. The snow topped mountains were beautiful even if you couldn’t see much.

I remember my first flight. I flew from Milwaukee Wisconsin to Naples Florida at age 16. I remember the white table cloths, silverware and even the delicious sandwich that was served. I had just started flying lessons so it was incredible to be on a jet!

My bag made it surprisingly. I looked around for atm and taxi. Both were just outside the tiny airport. No one came rushing up to sell me athing. What a pleasant surprise. First quote for a taxi seemed high. I usually use The ap Rome to Rio to get an idea of what the timing and cost of a trip should be. I have found that they are a little under priced by probably 20%. I went to the taxi stand and asked their price. It was a little lower. Btw we are talking $25 for a 45 min drive. I had enough money so I didn’t need the atm and we got in the car. I asked for a receipt because I have heard that they try to charge you again without it. I clearly stated where I was going and the taxi stand confirmed D’s Casa but the driver had no clue! Again. This time I had the address but not the telephone number. The man’s phone was just one phone away from the old( now new) flip phones. He asked about 5 people in the next 30 min. I had to use cell service to get directions for him and the GPS was ok just lagged a bit so we had to make another loop.

Photos along the way

Crossing guard

The lady above controlled traffic. So many of the roads were washed out and down to one lane. All up the mountain. No way could you drive at night! So the driver would just stop and wait then I figured out that this was why. In the little cities there was so much traffic and no room on the roads. No tuk-tuks here, no bikes just cars trucks and motor bikes. Many people, dogs and cows walking on the side of the road.

We finally arrived at the hotel.

So much construction and development but no roads

The room was freezing. Actually the whole hotel was freezing. The room smelled like petrol but then I realized it was moth balls. Time to go see the Dalai Lama!

Along the way. For Ricky. He wouldn’t starve here
Lamas after a prayer session
Listen to this
His Holiness’s chair
In his audience room

I am still not sure about taking photos or video so I am trying to be sly. These are in his public audience room.

Picture him next to me!

I stayed for awhile and asked to see him. They said I needed to be here for a week. I did a Kora and circumambulated the temple. More on that later.

I walked back into the tiny town. It’s a Holy place so trying to find a restaurant with alcohol is difficult. Found a Packer bar and had a G and T, emphasis on T.

One shot no ice
Cheese curds with spice
Packer chairs. So much in India is Green and Yellow
His Holiness’s residence
On my sliding glass door!
Sunset
Morning view on Valentines Day
Breakfast
Dinner last night at the hotel, freezing restaurant room
Why I bring my own coffee

The heat actually did work in my room. It takes a long 5 minutes for the heater to start but it was pretty warm. All night. Most rooms here have the key card thing to turn the electricity on/off, so it takes a bit to warm up the room. I will brave a shower mid day.

Time to go back to the Temple.

Agra to Delhi

Packed up and had a little breakfast. My driver was on time. We left at 9am. He decided to take the highway, much smoother roads but several terrible accidents that we missed by minutes. One was a small car vs a bus. Both were burned to a char. All the people were on the side of the road looking in terror. The fires were out but it seemed like they lost all of their possessions. For some reason my driver wanted to see how fast the car went, it was new. He had it up to 180kph. Luckily no dogs were wandering on the highway. At least the cows cont get on the highway.

Mostly uneventful. We stopped for a coffee in a huge rest point. Then we stopped for gas. His car was fueled by CNP. Not sure what that was. The lines are long for CNP, gas and Diesel. Lots of jockeying to be first. Driver told me he should have refueled in the night but he was tired.

As we got close to Delhi, I realized I didn’t tell him where we were going. I couldn’t pull up the address to the hotel. He gave me his phone to look it up. The things we take for granted. The hotel is in my phone in several places but not the address. I even took a screenshot of the hotel name and front to be prepared. Finally arrived at the Shanti Palace Hotel. Not a great area, but very close to the airport.

I was hungry so I decided to check out the restaurant. Had some yummy spicy lamb and a little wine.

After meal digestive

This is sugar and fennel seeds I think. You take a little of both and eat it, then pick the seeds out with toothpicks. I had this last time I was in India, but it was wrapped in edible foil.

There really wasn’t time to do anything today so I decided to check out their spa. They had many types of Ayurvedic treatments but the woman in charge pushed me to a 90 minute massage. We had to go downstairs to the front desk to pay then back to the spa.

I didn’t care if it was a man or woman so I ended up with a man. He was pretty good but a little in appropriate.

I tried to walk around a little to get fresh air, but it’s Delhi, there is no fresh air. The hotel was just off the highway on a busy road. It was just too busy to walk on. There really weren’t sidewalks so back to the restaurant. Now the hotel was replacing something at the entrance of the restaurant so People had to walk down to the basement and figure out where to pop up to find the restaurant. Interesting to say the least. Had a little food and more wine. The local wine is ok. If I try to order something else, they never have it or just don’t understand.

I woke up early. My flight was at. I knew that I had to check a bag. I had checked with the front desk about a ride to the airport and looked up the airline on the Internet to see what Terminal. Terminal 1 but the driver wasn’t sure. I showed him the terminal in my phone and off we went.

Turns out he was right, I was wrong. I was told to wait at the blue bus to go to the next terminal. Probably terminal 3. Then a man asked if I wanted a ride to the next terminal for 400 rupees vs the 500 on the bus. I hesitated and went for it. Turns out the terminal was another 20 minutes away! The bus would come, if on time, every 15 minutes so I might be really late. Yes, it was risky, but am I really a target? He dropped me off. I still didn’t know if I was in the right spot. There were no signs for my Airlines. It was like Spirit or Frontier. Finally someone said way at the other end. Was he telling the truth or just trying to get rid of me. The area he sent me to was Special assistance. Yup that was me. I waited in line and got through! Then had to ask again about the airline. My flight info was not where all the other flights were posted so I was worried. It was early in the day, there were other flights….

Delhi International is a huge airport. Way back in a corner was my check in area. Easy check in. Crazy security lines. Take off this, put this on one bin , that in another. Made it through. Time for coffee? Probably not but yes because now I am at hour three of a delay!

Luckily I have traveled enough not to get bent out of shape. I just people watch and read. The delay is due to weather, yet other planes are taking off. I think it’s too few people and they will combine the next flight.

As I was writing the above, I looked up and noticed that some of the people that I was pretty sure were on my flight, were gone. The monks, a mother and son, a woman who was in front of me in security that the frisker and that is what they are called, asked if we were traveling together The PA said something about a flight to Dharmsala at a different gate, but I didn’t understand. So I found a gate agent and he said yes, the bus to my plane was leaving. Go now.

It’s a prop plane to the Northern India! It sounds like an Indians Jones airplane!!!

Monday. More Taj

Last night I did catch up on some sleep after a little walk. Enjoyed seeing the camel. People stare but they say hello.

No dinner. Still full from lunch. Yesterday the driver and guide took me to a gem place to see the gemstones of Agra. One of the stones in the flower carvings on the Taj Mahal is orange and it glows, especially at sunset. The black stone on the Taj are iridescent so the are supposed to be beautiful during a full moon.

I got up early to go back the the Taj to see it at sunrise. It’s just half mile from my hotel. Btw hotel was fine, clean but noisy. Too close to the front desk and someone was smoking Ick. And no heat! It wasn’t too cold. Just used an extra towel.

Misty today
Monkeys!
Rules

At least I know that if I was bit again, I am covered for Tetanus and Rabies.

Hot a little lost, so many offers for help, one man even offered to go all the way to Delhi. I told him that my husband would get mad.

Photos back to the hotel

A store keeper feeds him every day
Painted trees
Squirrel
Coming through
Plant idea for Natalie

Time to get in the car.

India Sunday Feb 11 2024

I woke up early after a few nightmarish dreams, of getting bad phone calls. The bed and pillows were so comfortable. Why can’t I find these in the US. Had a nice breakfast, even tried some Indian dishes then met my driver a little bit early. He speaks adequate English and his vehicle is brand new. We started off to Agra at 8:30am. Perfect day. At 8:45am. Traffic jam. Tractor vs Lorry vs car. Will be interesting to see how this plays out.

The air is very smoggy, my eyes, nose and throat feel the pollution already. The roads so far, in 15 minutes seem clean, but still many cows milling out and about. They are sacred here and do as they please.

Hotel
Smog from the hotel window
Cows in the road
The car
Along the way
Just a street
Milkman
Lunch
Cart driven by horse

The drive was about 4 hours even with the delay. So much traffic. I mostly read a book. Old book from home, “The Lost Boy,” about foster care.

Finally bucket list moment! My driver got me to the hotel, I checked in and my guide for the Taj Mahal was there waiting. We walked the half mile to get there. She had plenty of stories tell me about the Taj and she was very interesting. She took some fun pictures too!

Monkeys!!
The entrance
Magical
Image in my glasses
Stone inlay work
Stone workers
From my hotel
Sunset

The Taj was even more spectacular than expected. My guide said the Queen upon her deathbed after her 14 th child, said to the king, promise to bury me so that all the world remembers me, make my children prosper and never marry again. Apparently he did all three wishes. I need to fact check!

Sacred cow eating out of the trash

Camel rides?

A fun part of the day was being asked to be in so many selfies with Indian people, mostly women and their children but some men too. My guide and I laughed at the angry wives!! I guess blond hair and sunglasses makes you a moviestar here!

A quiet night on the roof top deck and a short stroll.

Dad

I have to get this out of the way…. This is my third trip to India. My first trip was in October 2009. I was so excited to take a solo trip to see my friend Shirley, whom I will see on this trip. I also planned to go to my Mother’ first cousin’s husbands medical clinic to see how I could help dentally. It would have been two weeks in Southern India but upon my arrival, two men outside the airport held up a sign with my name on it. The first one said, “I am so sorry to tell you that your Father has expired.” Immediately I thought it was a scam and I said, “Good one.” And kept walking. Then he said, “We need to call your brother Peter.” Worst day of my life. My Dad died in Budapest. He and my Mom were on a river cruise with friends. It was a nightmare. We all went to Wisconsin for his funeral.

It was another incredible first class trip trip to India and then sprawled in the back of the plane with the chickens and goats on Ambien on the way back. I went back to India the next year and had an amazing trip including a quick scamper to Tokyo on a dear friends Global Bombardier 5500 for the night and a couple days in a fantastic suite in Dubai over looking Dubai Fountain and Burj Khalifa and the next day eating dinner over an open flame seated on the dirt, back in India. Wow!

So this will be my third trip to India! I have learned not to have plans set in stone because you never know. I have met interesting people that have invited me places and it’s good to keep your options open.

Now I will sit back and relax and enjoy this flight if it ever takes off!

The start of a journey starts with the first step some say but maybe it starts with a quote from a poem…

My brother might take this quote as exploring every possible door, room, or opening in the Meleto Castle in the Chianti region of Tuscany and my children might recall the other night sneaking around the not yet opene areas of the Lafayette Hotel but to me it it broader than that. It is the fascinating cultures of this world. It is sharing a moment with someone I don’t know, someone I can’t understand their language but yet we communicate through laughter, disgust or sadness. It truly magical.

I am off to India!!

First Class Baby!!

Thursday in Istanbul

I went to bed really early. I was so tired. Decided to do a morning tour on The Bosporus. It is the water between the two continents, Europe and Asia. So cool that a city spans both. It was a breakfast cruise for three hours. Pick up and drop off at my hotel. Not quite accurate. I was met at my hotel at 9. Then we walked to the next hotel and picked up three ladies. The guy just kept walking fast until I pointed out that one of the ladies was elderly. And don’t forget the sidewalks are not smooth, there are many broken pieces of concrete, cobblestone etc. he finally stopped at a corner and we waited 10 minutes. Next we boarded a small bus drove about 20 min then a short walk to the boat. We waited and waited for everyone to arrive. And finally departed. There were two tour guides one spoke in broken English and the other in Russian. It was pretty amusing watching people take so many photos on kind of an ugly day. The fresh air was nice. Less smoke than in the city.

Breakfast

First tomato that tasted like a tomato. These trays were on tables but it was kind of gross that they stacked them on top of each other before they were placed on the tables. Oh well

There was a stop to shop

My waiter was about 16, really bad teeth and no English. But we figured out the wine, then he wanted to try some English on me but then resorted to his phone translator. He wanted to know where I was from, if I had a husband, if I had children etc. I used his voice command to answer, then as I was leaving he wanted to spend more time with me alone! Men and boys are so bold here!!

So after we pulled into the dock, I wondered how they would get people back to hotels. I heard my hotel and knew that there was only one person going to my hotel. They rest of the people on my bus were going to a different hotel. I showed the driver the name of my hotel before I got on the bus! Yes I did. Next time I will show him the hotel business card, which I always grab but he seemed confident that he knew where my hotel was. He seemed to go the long way out of the way, maybe lost but, yes so much traffic. He dropped everyone off but me. I actually knew where I was and could have walked home. But no I let him go. At another spot, I came up to the front of the bus, I still knew where I was but he didn’t even look at me. My maps were on so when he was actually going across the bridge to the other side of Istanbul, I went up to him as he was driving and showed him the hotel address. He was very confused. He had me stay in the shot gun seat so he could see my map. My phone now had 6% power. He got me close but not quite but I knew where I was. He just waved me in the right direction. So I got off the bus. Plugged my phone in to my extra battery and started walked in the other direction. A very dapper Turkish man stopped me and told me no you need to go the other direction. I said, “yes I know! that stupid driver has been driving around for an hour and I saw a shop down the hill.” He laughed and said, “Yes crazy drivers here.” So I walked in the opposite direction to see this shop. I looked at a few things and headed back. I took this picture

Cute facades

Look at the man in the middle. He called out that I needed a rug. I pointed to my back pack that I didn’t have room. He could ship to US. As usual he asked where I was from. I said US he asked where I said California, San Diego . He said that he used to live there. He asked where specifically did I live and rattled off a few places. I said Coronado. He used to have a sunglass shop at the Del!! What a small world. He asked if I wanted tea. I said no I am looking for wine. So I sat down with my new friends and had some wine and fruit and chatted! Crazy. I said no when they wanted me to check out the roof top! And yes the wine was from an unopened bottle. When I left, the original man asked if I found my hotel yet, I explained what happed and he knew my new friend Nery. My Mom always says, talk to strangers!

View from room
Same
Same

Showered and tried to rest. Not happening. Time to go shopping at the Grand Bazaar and eat balloon bread again. I bought some stuff but again the Grand Bazaar is huge. 4000 stores in a building that is so old. When I was here with my Mom she was in Heaven. I would wander around and then have to find her. Usually that would be drinking tea with some merchant before she bought her next bauble.

Flat Balloon Bread
Nice bathroom
Mom and I were here in 2015
Lamb kabob

The waiters here were very nice. It is entertaining watching them try to get people into their restaurants. And serve the customers and shoo all the cats away. Back to the hotel. Changing hotels tomorrow because I came back here early. And I am glad that I did. I liked Cyprus but I like Istanbul much more.

Istanbul

Just having a quick one and done here. I am in a pretty touristy area and I am still awed by the diversity of cultures here. From three piece suits on men to shorts and all the male cultural outfits in between. Same with the women, burkas with just eyes showing to short and halter tops. It is the BEST people watching!

After the hour long taxi ride I arrived at my hotel. It must have been 10 am. I left my big back pack and decided to go to the Topkapi Palace. No ticket pre purchased. The lines weren’t as bad as at the airport. I went first to the harem. I love that stuff. It was beautiful!

Love the tiles
Eunuch
Ceilings
Sultans Mothers tub
Locked from the inside to bathe
The view from the palace
For George!
Beautiful
Eggplant and tomatoes
These are old!
Cats everywhere
Ravioli
Grand Bazaar

I was just walking around. And tried a little food here and there. One and done. Not tired but I will be soon. The Grand Bazaar is so massive and so overwhelming. WhenI was here in 2015 with my Mother, she couldn’t get enough of this place. I wandered but couldn’t even stop and look at things. Too crazy.