Travel Pig

I made the mistake of mentioning that I was interested in the Kundan type of jewelry so off to the jewelry shops we went. They always have some kind of demonstration then a big sales pitch. I knew exactly what I wanted yet they brought out so much other stuff. We did this twice and then I had to sit through a painting demo and perfume.

Prior to that we went to the kings burial grounds

Next was the Amber Palace where Royalty was before the City Palace. It was pretty incredible.

The woman watched the goings on from behind this marble

This water was for everything! Drinking, bathing etc

Hotel bar was empty food not great

I had been to the rooftop pool. Dirty and cold and didn’t want to share it with the pigeons.

Someone from the front desk came up to get me. He needed his money for the day trip. I packed my stuff up and went to the atm at the shopping area next door. I had run out of cash. ATM not working. I offered them USD but they wanted twice as much as my phone app said. One of the bell hops walked to a bank near by with me. They didn’t want me to go alone. It seems like an ok neighborhood and it was still light. ATM not working. I offered USD. At my rate and they took it. All those games used to work but now with exchange rate apps, they can’t argue. I made arrangements for a taxi the next day. They called me on the room phone to remind me that I needed to pay cash for the taxi or it would be an additional charge on my bill. By that time I went back to the first ATM and finally was able to get money! I was rich again with $250 worth of rupees!

In the morning taxi and flight to Jodhpur. Decided to upgrade! Two nights at a beautiful palace.

The palace was built in 1899. It has 12 rooms. The other rooms to stay at here are former horse stables. It is a beautiful property with a lake. The aqueduct was built in 1089 AD. I was a little terrified by all the monkeys surrounding the reception area. No pictures of them yet but there are a lot of them. One showed me his teeth already!!

So just sitting by the pool. Photos later and a worker comes up with a putter and a wedge and a range ball. He wants me to golf! There is a “golf course”. lol. Just a hole chiseled out for a hole. He hits the putter backwards to show me what to do. So I used the wedge and he tried catching the ball with his hands. It was so funny.

Jaipur. Arrival and taxi to the Sunday Hotel were fine. Hotel is a Four Star. Not sure they can count up to four. The room is fine. It’s an old hotel that needs a little help.

I went to the little bar for food and a cocktail. A whiskey drink and curry with watermelon salad. The feta on the salad was frozen or freeze dried. The shrimp in the curry was way overcooked but the flavor was fine. It was a long day. Shower and bed. In the morning I decided to try a tour. The hotel had a driver and guide and I gave them a list of things I wanted to see. Typically I would have walked to these places or at least started at one but I wanted to see a lot of things today. Tour stared out good. The guides’ English was hard to understand but good enough. The driver was very aggressive. We started with the famous Hawa Mahal with its facade to let the ladies see who was coming into the palace without being seen 365 windows.

Interesting spot next to the Hawa. A place where sundials told time and other instruments told horoscopes and longitude and latitude.

Next was the City Palace where the 26 year old King, his Mom, Sister and Grandmother live.

I came down to the city of Thiruvananthapuram via the Trivandrum airport. I arrived about 6pm. I didn’t check luggage so I was on my way to the prepaid taxi. They seemed to know exactly where my hotel was. I don’t think I have ever been on a worse taxi trip. I knew it was going to be about an hour but I didn’t know that he would nearly miss two humans and actually try to hit a dog. More later. Too tired. Headed to Jaipur tomorrow via airplane. Staying at the Sunday Hotel.

Arrived safely at the hotel. And he finally found it. Check in was easy. I hung out and waited for Shirley. She would arrive around 2am. It was so great to see her after so many years. I will post her beautifully written account of our history later. She is a dear friend of so many years.

This is Varkala beach. It is a Holy place. So many people come for the sunset and sunrise. We did both. Luckily her driver could drive us very close and pick us up. During the day we went to a beautiful beach area with the Arabian Sea on one side and backwaters on the other. After sunset we had a very good dinner surrounded by expats.

“In April 2008, I had the pleasure of meeting the warm and caring Suzanne (Dr. Suzanne Popp) in San Diego during a Rotary GSE visit. Instantly drawn to her kindness, a beautiful friendship blossomed. What initially started as a week-long stay at her house became a cherished tradition, with Suzanne reciprocating the warmth by visiting me in 2010 and me visiting her in 2012 in Coronado, San Diego. Despite the vast distance between our continents, our connection has thrived for over 11 years.

Our recent reunion in Varkala, Kerala, was a testament to Suzanne’s warm spirit. Filled with heartfelt conversations, walks along the beach during sunrise and sunset, and tranquil moments by the backwater banks, our time together, though short, was deeply meaningful. The memories created during this visit are treasures I hold dear.

Suzanne’s welcoming home and her caring nature transcend borders, exemplifying the enduring beauty of connections that withstand both time and distance. Grateful for the simple joys shared with such a beautiful soul, I reflect on the profound impact of a friendship nurtured by warmth and genuine care.”

Shirley is the warmest, nicest person. She was and is a perfect example of a welcoming, accepting, adventurous, infectiously beautiful woman. She has two children at University and a kind husband that lets her be independent.

Our time together was too short. We have many more pictures!!

Shirley had to leave Sunday afternoon to drive 8 hours back home! Who does that? My dear friend, that’s who!

I decided to do the backwater trip I had wanted to spend a few days on a boat, but I didn’t have time and the reviews were not great, besides it’s hot, muggy and buggy so an hour was perfect!

So now a taxi to Trivandrum airport. Fly to Bangalore then Jaipur for the next two day and then?

Crazy driving. Always in a hurry. I can’t believe that I haven’t experienced a side swiping yet. Not to mention hitting a pedestrian. This did happen in Kenya. The biker was in the wrong but not hurt

Buddhist believe in reincarnation I don’t for me. They don’t care if they die.

Monks here are happy and talk like kids here not other places, like Thailand and Cambodia. They didn’t like to be looked at at all, especially at an alms giving procession

Roads are washed out. Electrical wire as guard rail. Scary

Trust. Have to have it all times. Trust the driver, trust the other drivers, trust the people on the side of the road that they won’t wander off into the road.

Hair pin curves. Near accidents

Tiny range of comfort zone monks endure 40-50 degrees each day and I am cold with a puffy jacket, long underwear, cashmere, mittens and hand warmers and they walk around in a robe. Some have jackets on

Just got my cross cultural moment our car and another slowed way down to pass each other. The car behind the other car wasn’t prepared to stop, slammed on the brakes and honked long and loud. Driver and I just laughed together!

Trip has decreased my opinion of China even more. Why kick a small peaceful country, such as Tibet, out. China is so big, the unforgivable Cultural Revolution where 77 Million Chinese lost their lives and no one talks about that. And now present day China. Only two theaters in SD are not owned by the Chinese. And you all know the rest

Ab work out with the drive. No seatbelts.

Arriving in Trivandrum.

So yesterday I had the same breakfast at the hotel, a simple omelet and coffee and then headed to the shortcut to the temple. Pictures along the way:

This mosaic looked totally different just looking at it compared to a photo

Last day at the temple. I went in to a couple shops in the temple complex but since this is a year of purging stuff from my house, how can I buy anything.

I sat in the courtyard again for a couple hours. No visitations today but plenty of activity. I am glad that I came all the way to spend some time near HH. Just slightly disappointed that I didn’t get to meet him. Still a once in a lifetime experience. The little girls were cute. They spoke some English. I did another Kora and walked back up the hill.

I am still a little wary of the monkeys. No need to get bit or jumped on again I had a money jump on my head in Myanmar in a very sacred place and I screamed bloody murder!

Dinner was pretty good here. Just two other tables besides me. A group next to me spoke English. They were going to see the Dalai Lama in the morning. One man was the tour guide and explained the process. As I listened I realized these people had very little clue of his history or Tibets history and I was just getting madder and madder and jealous!! Oh well. I wanted to just blurt out that even watching “Seven Years in Tibet” could have prepped them.

Time for bed and to pack up to leave in the morning.

Taxi was ready to go. He talked to me a bit but I just wanted to him to pay attention and drive. It’s pretty scary screaming down the mountain dodging obstacles. AirPort was uneventful. On to Delhi airport. I had a longer layover until my flight South to Trivandrum. Then the worst taxi driver ever to my hotel. He was so close to hitting two people and I swear he was trying to hit a dog at one point.

At the hotel. It’s nice. The shower pressure is so nice compared to Dharamsala and constant hot water rather than intermittent. Just waiting for my friend Shirley to arrive. She is doing 6 and a half hours to see me! We met when she was with a Rotary Group Study exchange program in 2008. She has been to my house twice and I have been to her house in India too. We will have a fun weekend!

Yes, today is my Birthday. I have been celebrating in other countries and continents for many years. It’s not that I don’t want to be with my family and friends but this is my gift to myself.

Seeing the Dalai Lama has been on my bucket list for many years. I am starting to realize that the closest I will ever be to him was yesterday.

It’s interesting that when I was in Lhasa Tibet, years ago, I felt such a spiritual vibe at the Portola Palace. His Holiness had not been there since he was forced to leave when the Chinese invaded in 1959, before I was born. He has been here in McLeod Ganj India since then.

Another venture to the Tsuglagkhang Complex where the HH lives and works anew receives visitors.

I walked the long way yesterday, today I know a back way. I pass so many of the same people, I smile at the leg less man, I shoo away the kids asking for money and I wonder how they all survive. They all seem to sell the same stuff, even the hand knitted scarves all have the same yarn. Everyday the vendors sit and hope to sell something, everything is dusty. I walk a little slower to the temple today trying to take everything in.

There was definitely more action happening today. HH only does audiences on Monday Wednesday and Friday. There were so many monks, some rushing about some slowly walking. People were lined up at the gate with stacks of papers in hand. I knew about this but could never get an answer or a contact, so I planned just to show up and hope or at least just hang out, observe and read my books.

I just sat and watched. No cameras allowed but others were taking pictures too, so I wasn’t the only rebel. I was the only blond and one of three that wore sunglasses. All ages, men women and families. It seemed mostly Tibetans although hard to tell. Some people had western clothing and some cultural. I moved in and out of the sun. At 7000 feet the sun is hot but in the mountains the air is cool. There was no one to ask what was happening, so I just watched. I was there from about 9 am until 1pm.

There was door opened next to HH office that people rushed in and out of. I couldn’t tell what was happening but excitement was in the air. All of a sudden all the people in line rushed to the reception door and waited.

They went in and came out. Everyone was solemn. I had tears in my eyes just coming into the complex. This was a day I had been planning for so long. He was just inside that door.

As everyone had their time with HH, things started happening around the courtyard. I wanted to stay longer but I wanted to do my Kora. Basically it’s walking around a sacred structure, clockwise. Some people walk and some even prostrate themselves, meaning they slide from standing to laying down on the ground to back upright instead of walking. Can you imagine doing this for miles? some use wooden blocks or bean bags. I walked. Then you also turn these wheels.

I thought perhaps the middle guy with the glasses was him, he was something special but not the Dalai Lama.

I hung around a bit more but I was getting hungry

Funny how so many hotels get bad reviews here, bad water pressure, cold rooms etc. Look what they have to work with!

Back to the hotel for a little nap and reading. I have read several books already including, The Henna Artist, The Island of Missing trees, both historical fiction. Biz books, Hunting Discomfort, PT Barnum Book of Life and The Greatness Mindset. And something else on the plane.

Back out and about, it’s a hilly area so I am getting my steps in. I didn’t want to be out after dark but I found a place to eat and have some wine and people watch so I stayed out later that I expected. The streets are well lit and lively to use Megan’s word. This is the main square.

Note the ditches. You really have to pay attention when walking. The cars, the ditches, the uneven roads and some dog poop here and there. It’s pretty clean though.

Today’s agenda breakfast at the hotel, secret path to the Temple, Tibet Museum, a nice dinner at a wine bar.

The flight was uneventful. I think the man next to me had never been on a plane because he videotaped almost the whole flight. It was super foggy/smoggy so you really couldn’t see anything until the Himalayas. The snow topped mountains were beautiful even if you couldn’t see much.

I remember my first flight. I flew from Milwaukee Wisconsin to Naples Florida at age 16. I remember the white table cloths, silverware and even the delicious sandwich that was served. I had just started flying lessons so it was incredible to be on a jet!

My bag made it surprisingly. I looked around for atm and taxi. Both were just outside the tiny airport. No one came rushing up to sell me athing. What a pleasant surprise. First quote for a taxi seemed high. I usually use The ap Rome to Rio to get an idea of what the timing and cost of a trip should be. I have found that they are a little under priced by probably 20%. I went to the taxi stand and asked their price. It was a little lower. Btw we are talking $25 for a 45 min drive. I had enough money so I didn’t need the atm and we got in the car. I asked for a receipt because I have heard that they try to charge you again without it. I clearly stated where I was going and the taxi stand confirmed D’s Casa but the driver had no clue! Again. This time I had the address but not the telephone number. The man’s phone was just one phone away from the old( now new) flip phones. He asked about 5 people in the next 30 min. I had to use cell service to get directions for him and the GPS was ok just lagged a bit so we had to make another loop.

Photos along the way

The lady above controlled traffic. So many of the roads were washed out and down to one lane. All up the mountain. No way could you drive at night! So the driver would just stop and wait then I figured out that this was why. In the little cities there was so much traffic and no room on the roads. No tuk-tuks here, no bikes just cars trucks and motor bikes. Many people, dogs and cows walking on the side of the road.

We finally arrived at the hotel.

The room was freezing. Actually the whole hotel was freezing. The room smelled like petrol but then I realized it was moth balls. Time to go see the Dalai Lama!

I am still not sure about taking photos or video so I am trying to be sly. These are in his public audience room.

I stayed for awhile and asked to see him. They said I needed to be here for a week. I did a Kora and circumambulated the temple. More on that later.

I walked back into the tiny town. It’s a Holy place so trying to find a restaurant with alcohol is difficult. Found a Packer bar and had a G and T, emphasis on T.

The heat actually did work in my room. It takes a long 5 minutes for the heater to start but it was pretty warm. All night. Most rooms here have the key card thing to turn the electricity on/off, so it takes a bit to warm up the room. I will brave a shower mid day.

Time to go back to the Temple.

Packed up and had a little breakfast. My driver was on time. We left at 9am. He decided to take the highway, much smoother roads but several terrible accidents that we missed by minutes. One was a small car vs a bus. Both were burned to a char. All the people were on the side of the road looking in terror. The fires were out but it seemed like they lost all of their possessions. For some reason my driver wanted to see how fast the car went, it was new. He had it up to 180kph. Luckily no dogs were wandering on the highway. At least the cows cont get on the highway.

Mostly uneventful. We stopped for a coffee in a huge rest point. Then we stopped for gas. His car was fueled by CNP. Not sure what that was. The lines are long for CNP, gas and Diesel. Lots of jockeying to be first. Driver told me he should have refueled in the night but he was tired.

As we got close to Delhi, I realized I didn’t tell him where we were going. I couldn’t pull up the address to the hotel. He gave me his phone to look it up. The things we take for granted. The hotel is in my phone in several places but not the address. I even took a screenshot of the hotel name and front to be prepared. Finally arrived at the Shanti Palace Hotel. Not a great area, but very close to the airport.

I was hungry so I decided to check out the restaurant. Had some yummy spicy lamb and a little wine.

This is sugar and fennel seeds I think. You take a little of both and eat it, then pick the seeds out with toothpicks. I had this last time I was in India, but it was wrapped in edible foil.

There really wasn’t time to do anything today so I decided to check out their spa. They had many types of Ayurvedic treatments but the woman in charge pushed me to a 90 minute massage. We had to go downstairs to the front desk to pay then back to the spa.

I didn’t care if it was a man or woman so I ended up with a man. He was pretty good but a little in appropriate.

I tried to walk around a little to get fresh air, but it’s Delhi, there is no fresh air. The hotel was just off the highway on a busy road. It was just too busy to walk on. There really weren’t sidewalks so back to the restaurant. Now the hotel was replacing something at the entrance of the restaurant so People had to walk down to the basement and figure out where to pop up to find the restaurant. Interesting to say the least. Had a little food and more wine. The local wine is ok. If I try to order something else, they never have it or just don’t understand.

I woke up early. My flight was at. I knew that I had to check a bag. I had checked with the front desk about a ride to the airport and looked up the airline on the Internet to see what Terminal. Terminal 1 but the driver wasn’t sure. I showed him the terminal in my phone and off we went.

Turns out he was right, I was wrong. I was told to wait at the blue bus to go to the next terminal. Probably terminal 3. Then a man asked if I wanted a ride to the next terminal for 400 rupees vs the 500 on the bus. I hesitated and went for it. Turns out the terminal was another 20 minutes away! The bus would come, if on time, every 15 minutes so I might be really late. Yes, it was risky, but am I really a target? He dropped me off. I still didn’t know if I was in the right spot. There were no signs for my Airlines. It was like Spirit or Frontier. Finally someone said way at the other end. Was he telling the truth or just trying to get rid of me. The area he sent me to was Special assistance. Yup that was me. I waited in line and got through! Then had to ask again about the airline. My flight info was not where all the other flights were posted so I was worried. It was early in the day, there were other flights….

Delhi International is a huge airport. Way back in a corner was my check in area. Easy check in. Crazy security lines. Take off this, put this on one bin , that in another. Made it through. Time for coffee? Probably not but yes because now I am at hour three of a delay!

Luckily I have traveled enough not to get bent out of shape. I just people watch and read. The delay is due to weather, yet other planes are taking off. I think it’s too few people and they will combine the next flight.

As I was writing the above, I looked up and noticed that some of the people that I was pretty sure were on my flight, were gone. The monks, a mother and son, a woman who was in front of me in security that the frisker and that is what they are called, asked if we were traveling together The PA said something about a flight to Dharmsala at a different gate, but I didn’t understand. So I found a gate agent and he said yes, the bus to my plane was leaving. Go now.

It’s a prop plane to the Northern India! It sounds like an Indians Jones airplane!!!

Last night I did catch up on some sleep after a little walk. Enjoyed seeing the camel. People stare but they say hello.

No dinner. Still full from lunch. Yesterday the driver and guide took me to a gem place to see the gemstones of Agra. One of the stones in the flower carvings on the Taj Mahal is orange and it glows, especially at sunset. The black stone on the Taj are iridescent so the are supposed to be beautiful during a full moon.

I got up early to go back the the Taj to see it at sunrise. It’s just half mile from my hotel. Btw hotel was fine, clean but noisy. Too close to the front desk and someone was smoking Ick. And no heat! It wasn’t too cold. Just used an extra towel.

At least I know that if I was bit again, I am covered for Tetanus and Rabies.

Hot a little lost, so many offers for help, one man even offered to go all the way to Delhi. I told him that my husband would get mad.

Photos back to the hotel

Time to get in the car.

I woke up early after a few nightmarish dreams, of getting bad phone calls. The bed and pillows were so comfortable. Why can’t I find these in the US. Had a nice breakfast, even tried some Indian dishes then met my driver a little bit early. He speaks adequate English and his vehicle is brand new. We started off to Agra at 8:30am. Perfect day. At 8:45am. Traffic jam. Tractor vs Lorry vs car. Will be interesting to see how this plays out.

The air is very smoggy, my eyes, nose and throat feel the pollution already. The roads so far, in 15 minutes seem clean, but still many cows milling out and about. They are sacred here and do as they please.

The drive was about 4 hours even with the delay. So much traffic. I mostly read a book. Old book from home, “The Lost Boy,” about foster care.

Finally bucket list moment! My driver got me to the hotel, I checked in and my guide for the Taj Mahal was there waiting. We walked the half mile to get there. She had plenty of stories tell me about the Taj and she was very interesting. She took some fun pictures too!

The Taj was even more spectacular than expected. My guide said the Queen upon her deathbed after her 14 th child, said to the king, promise to bury me so that all the world remembers me, make my children prosper and never marry again. Apparently he did all three wishes. I need to fact check!

Sacred cow eating out of the trash

A fun part of the day was being asked to be in so many selfies with Indian people, mostly women and their children but some men too. My guide and I laughed at the angry wives!! I guess blond hair and sunglasses makes you a moviestar here!

A quiet night on the roof top deck and a short stroll.