This is how steep some place were! Some of the path was washed out. There was a memorial for someone taking a pic of a cave and moved back too far and went over the cliff! Some areas were as wide as my foot.
In Kathmandu!
I arrived yesterday via helicopter!
After the amazing moment of getting to EBC, we hiked back to Gorek Shep. There was a chance that we could helicopter down today or stay the night here. We had a room just in case. But I forgot the day before….
When we were hiking I saw some people on the horses. I thought why not me? What not go a little faster with me on a horse. I suggested this to Nimmi and she said she would see. Our hike the next day was three hours then lunch then three more hours.
We had arrived late to the Tea House the night before so we had to find another one and share a room together. It wasn’t so bad but frustrating that they sold our room bits first come first serve. They want the money. It’s high season and it only lasts a month. Ruthless!
So the going rate was $100 for a horse. I was hoping for 30 min or an hour. I rode for two hours! It was frightening! It was icy, the horse, a sweet boy named Rainbow, kept slipping and I didn’t want to be the one that caused his death, but this is what they are bred for. Instead of three hours it took two. I was freezing since I wasn’t hiking but it was fun! And Nimmi, the negotiator got the horse for $70.
We had lunch in Gorak Shep. Three more hours. I put the crampons on that Hans had given me and we started off. Flat at first, then rocky ups and downs, one long down, then a small up when the tears started. In seconds I would achieve my goal!
We took our turn, taking pictures. It was another beautiful sunny day in the 50’s.





We hiked back for about 2.5 hours. When we got to the Tea House, I asked if we were going to helicopter down?



We talked about my emergency insurance. Her brother worked with the helicopters and the hospital. As I write about it now it seems a little bit of a scam.
The average flight down, shared is about $600. In the end I was charged $4400.
Nimmi said let’s go now, the helicopter is coming. We had to climb up a big hill with 8 inches of snow. She was literally pulling me up to slope. She was afraid that they would leave. I was dying! My bag was already on the helicopter and we made it! I was breathing so heavy, my heart was pounding and my headache was now splitting.
Helicopter took about ten minutes to get to Lukla. We took 8 or 9 days. I don’t even know now.



At Lukla we got off the transport helicopter and after an hour got on another. I got to be the copilot. Nimmi and three other were with us. Two young men from Scotland and a young lady from Taiwan. We were up and going, then down and landing. We waited about 20 minutes and then we were cancelled. We were socked in. Airport closed.
By now my headache was gone at 10000feet. After a bit, they sent us to another Tea House, with a shower and private room! We had some dinner and a beer!!





Went to bed early, tried the shower, no hot water, not even slightly warm just ice cold. It was nice not to be freezing getting ready for bed
The Tea Houses were supposed to be warm in the main room but really only one was and the 4410 cafe. There rest were cold. Some colder inside vs outside!
I woke up early, packed and went down for tea. We walked to the airport. Some baggage fairy took my bag to and from the airport. We waited an hour. Nimmis cousin brought us coffee. Others around us wondered how we rated! Ha!
Got to be copilot again. 45 minute flight to Kathmandu I was watching the controls since I took flying lessons long ago. I wonder how the altitude is calculated over the mountains and valleys. Tried to get photos but non turned out too great.
As we arrived there was an ambulance waiting. He checked my blood oxygen. It was normal. It had dipped as low as 78% which is normal at altitude.
At the hospital they kept saying 10 min more for about three hours. I checked out with the right symptoms. They offered me lunch, I refused. They wanted chest xray and blood work, I refused. They wanted to keep me over night, I refused. Finally they sent me to the waiting room. We were waiting for the doctors letter that I had altitude sickness so my insurance would pay. The insurance people needed to do this.

Then the helicopter representative arrived wanting money, I said NO, not until I get the letter, then The bitch in me came out! I gave them 10 minutes to get the paper or I was walking out. I left in 8 minutes and the helicopter guy would get the letter and come to my hotel.
We left, I had told Nimmi that I was staying somewhere else than the Tea House I started at. Too toxic. The Kathmandu Guest House is beautiful with outdoor space and gardens and art. I booked a suite for $113 a night

They guy arrived and gave me the doctors letter but his card reader would not work. I gave him 8 minutes more. He could write the number down, but I wanted a shower!!!


Had a shower and then wine and pasta and a nap. Then I went out to shop. It’s so busy and so smoky that I came back to the hotel for wine and pizza and sleep.

Today I finish this blog and relax! I hope I can post some videos, they take forever to download so maybe when I get back to the States on Monday or maybe at my overnight in Doha.
More photos next post
I did it!! I accomplished a huge physical and mental goal take I set out to do seven months ago


I have so much more to write but it will have to wait until tomorrow but it involves hiking…. Duh. A horse, a helicopter and a beer.
I am weather delayed in Lukla at the moment, over night.
Thukla for lunch 4620m
We have hiked 3 hours with a rise in elevation of 210 m Not much. There is more to come today as we head to Loboche another 3 hours. It is in the 50’s sunny and clear. The path is snowy and muddy. I finally got the “sticks” , hiking poles out.
We have to stop for horses and ox and faster people.
More






Getting lucky






More



Trying again


Trying again


Internet issues
Omg. The internet is so frustrating. It starts to post then doesn’t…Ugg
We did a 2 hour hike today doesn’t sound like much but at 14000ft it is! About 1000 feet. So every 1000ft of elevation you should acclimate a day. I thought that meant rest but it means stay at the altitude and do a hike up a little higher. We had breakfast before and lunch after then I strolled down to the 4410 cafe. That is our altitude in meters. Had some tea and electrolyte water and a delicious brownie like thing. Then back to the Tea house to sit out side and read.
It’s about 45-50 degrees in the day and should be for the rest of my trip. The snow is melting. Nights are cold. Last night was 17 degrees F.
Tomorrow we have a six hour day, Hike back up then a long down then ups and downs and then a steep up. The accommodations will be pretty rustic with no running water limited electricity. In this tea house, no heat, the electricity in the room is on 5 pm til 7 am. No water in the night. Everything is solar.
It has been luxurious staying at the same tea house for two nights. What would be better is washing my hair! I feel like I just had a Brazilian blowout. That braid idea was a waste of time! How about a haircut in Kathmandu!
I decided to shorten my days and helicopter out after the photo op at EBC. I know that I will be done by then! So Lobouche tomorrow and Gorek Shep the next day, possibly two days. Better to go to EBC in the morning.
Photos and videos when I get to Kathmandu!