Travel Pig

I set my alarm for 5:30. They decided I needed to get up At 4:50am. Oh well. Got ready, a little coffee and took the bus to the airport. I decided to beat the crowds. Had to go through security shoes off etc then pass port control then security again finally in the waiting area for an hour or so. I walked up towards the gate. There were a lot of people milling around. One guy said some town and Victoria Falls. He hustled us into line to wait 20 minutes then wait on the bus for 20 minutes then board and the plane was mostly empty. So I did get my own row. This was an old and work out 787. Ran hard and put away dirty. My tv kept turning off and the light kept tuning on. Crazy. I was watching for Kilimanjaro and saw it!!!

Easy getting off the plane, people were still pushing to get ahead. America is so civilized. Visa for all three countries in one.$50. Passport stamped. Guy with my name at the exit. Cold water and AC on the short drive to Victoria Falls Safari Lodge.

I need a nap. Instructed not to leave window or doors open because of the monkeys and baboons. Apparently they have tetanus but not rabies. Luckily I am vaccinated against both!

I knew this would be a long day. There was no better way to get from Benin to Victoria Falls without a long day. If I kept to the original plan, it would have been a long drive from Benin through Togo to Ghana and more risks of delays.

So I took a shuttle to the airport. Remember very few people speak English. It’s a ten minute ride. I kept some old dirty bills for a tip. I gave the rest of my Benin money to my new friend Ezekiel last night.

So I walk in the airport. It’s small. First guy points me to the left, to where, nothing is there. I see a line up area for Ethiopia Air so I go towards it. I have arrived two and a half hours early. I follow the path, no one is in line. Passport control was easy. I walk up to the check in desk, like every other airport. I had walked past about 7 people that worked for Ethiopia Air, no one even looked at me. I had 20 pounds on my back and white skin and blond hair!

At the desk, two ladies looked at my like I was a fugitive and waved me back. Then the other 7 were in a tizzy. They started straightening their barriers and looking official. One man asked if I had insurance. I asked why? Maybe he meant a visa? Then he asked for that, nope I’ll get one upon arrival. He finally let me pass. The same ladies were at the check in. Now they were nice. I had to weigh my back pack. They let it go, probably because they didn’t see my smaller one.

The day before, I chose my seat. Most of the plane was empty so no big deal if I had a bigger back pack. I chose a row way in the back so I could spread out and sleep.

Walked toward the gate and I was stopped by a woman questioning my backpack. I just pointed at the nice ladies and said they let me though and that my small backpack was my purse. She let me pass.

It was a short walk to the gate. Typical duty free stuff. Who buys that stuff anyway? A tiny coffee place before the three gates. I spent time researching my family tree, really!

As it got closer to departure time, I moved to the gate. People were getting so pushy already, so I waited to board til almost the end. Buses to the front and the back of the airplane. Once I got to the front of the line, they told me to wait. I am trying to be patient.

I take the bus, board the plane and it is utter chaos. It’s packed! People pushing, not wanting to move for others, no room in the overhead compartment. When I finally get near my seat, someone is in it, but my mistake. I am in the next row. I ask the two women in my row to take my small bag and wait for a flight attendant to help me. She immediately tells me to shove my bag in an overhead and it fits!

The woman next to me has no space, nor voice, nor phone volume awareness! It’s also very smelly on the 5+ hour flight! Oh well.

So when I checked in they also gave me a voucher for a hotel and meals. I was confused but didn’t bother to ask. I had booked a hotel already because my days of sleeping in airports is over. I would wait and see.

As I got off the plane, I wasn’t sure where to go, passport control or Transit. I started towards transit then went back and asked. Passport control it was. My very soft spoken agent got me through and told me to get on the big bus. No visa needed.

So I kept walking, stopping at another desk and she motioned me on, next guy did the same. Got on the bus, super crowded. We had to be seated and drove about 7 minutes to the hotel. It’s a really nice hotel. I had booked a Best Western, violating my box rule but I was pretty sure that I would need a good shower and bed.

I have had fun with this before, waiting in line for an hour or so. A nice man came up to me and I said that I just wanted to find a restaurant while everyone else checked in. He said sure, just wait a minute. Sure enough he came back and escorted me to the voucher buffet. I said no thanks, he said just try it. He took my passport and I was worried. No buffet for me. I looked and there was nothing palatable. He came back and sure enough had my room key and passport and escorted me to my room.

I only had 100’s so I tried to get change. Guess I’ll just give him a hundred tomorrow if I see him. It was worth it.

There was a Chinese restaurant but it was closed. Went to the adjacent building and has some Italian. Now sleeping for 5 hours noon to Victoria Falls.

Do it! But here are a couple of tips.

Always travel with a half a roll of toilet paper in a small ziplock. Wipe disinfectants, not hand spray. Old closed toed shoes for markets, especially if the country has a lot of dogs roaming around. West Africa does not. Leave them at the end of the trip. Keep some clothes at home, those that you say you will never wear again and to bring to a trip like this, that you also plan to leave. Sometimes you keep getting them back, right Megan? I still have those white shorts. I love the narrow or cuffed pants so nothing drags on the ground.

Ask to take a picture.

The people selling their wares like to haggle for the most part, it’s flirting! Natalie rules the Souks in Marrakech. Most of all embrace the culture, the people, the smells and the interesting food!

When do you get to just go down any rabbit hole and look around. I feel like that is how my Day has been. I looked up relatives, like my grandmother’s sister who I think was actually her mother. I wrote to their grandson or rather great grandson. I think I have proof now that my grandmother was actually conceived in Vienna as we suspected.

Earlier I researched geology in Wisconsin and glaciers and Kettles and Moraines. I explained to my server, who wanted to know what I was reading, that as a science major, I never had time for geology, culture, world religions etc and now I do. It was fun giving him a little “ get you shit” together talk. “Just do It!” “Don’t play it Safe.”

And I had time to get an outline in my children’s book about Lloyd the cat.

Time to sleep!

So many calls and well wishers from the States and various parts of the World! Thank you!

Today was meant to be a day of nothing and it pretty much was. I didn’t sleep well, again. Room was too hot. Thermostat was set at 62 but it was way warmer than that, like 90! Finally took a pill. Uggg hate to.

I slept until 11! Coffee in the lobby and then I got brave and decided to walk to the beach, alone. I knew there was a beach and a restaurant. Obama Beach. The neighborhood is nicer than I’ve seen. It just took a few minutes and not too hot. It’s in the 90’s with 90% humidity but maybe I am getting used to it.

Clearly a locals place and one for picnics. It’s Saturday. Found the restaurant and a nice woman asked if I wanted to buy anything thinking she was selling souvenirs. She was the owner/hostess/server/buswoman. She spoke a little English. I ordered a beer, came without a label… but she opened in front of me. Maybe this is true recycling???

End of the day. Relaxing and not drenched in grimy sweat. Tomorrow a market.

Thanks again for all the Birthday wishes!

Officially named the Sacred Forest of Kpassè or Kpassè Zoun, the semi-wild woodland is dedicated to King Kpassè, the 16^th century ruler of the African kingdom of Whydah that once encompassed the area of modern-day Ouidah. He was being chased and did not want to die, so he fled into a forest and turned into a tree. The pythons delayed the attackers and he got away. His line is still in power

There are many sacred statues some honoring metal workers, some dedicated to to thunder, fertility and one keeping Small Pox at bay.

Our next stop was the end of the slave trade road. It is now a meeting area for the Voo Doo ceremonies held once a year.

Next stop the Village of Ganvie

This stilt village, located in the lagoon of Lake Nokoue, was created for the Tofinu people to stay safe from slave hunters. It has become part of their culture and way of life. The teetering houses, schools, churches and other structures form a ramshackle village. The villagers live almost exclusively from fishing. The men fish, the women sell the fish. Kids are on their own when not in school.

I was not feeling well. The first stop was someone’s house. This woman is an entrepreneur. She opened a souvenir shop shop, sells beverages and rents out two rooms with bathrooms. My guide, started to say we can see the toilet first and I immediately said, can I use it? Lol. Yes a toilet, no pipes to or from the toilet. I know the drill, just pour water from the nearby bucket to flush, like India, but they have pipes, this just went into the lake where they fished.

About 35,000 people live here, some have never left. They like to have many kids so that they can help with the chores!

A traditional was that if you were in someone’s house and they didn’t offer you water, you were not welcome. Then you had to drink the water or pretend and dump some on the floor. Tough choice.

I really wanted to go my hotel was hot and tired and sweaty and not feeling great, but they insisted that I see the monuments.

One we drove by, it was of a guy that brought communism to Benin for a few years. They didn’t like it. I asked why they kept the monument up and he said because it’s History! But not in America.

Hotel is nice but a bit stuffy. AC did not work great. I think they fixed. I find an insurance card in the electricity saver where you put you key, works great to keep the AC on when I am gone.

They did have a Valentines celebration here. It was very festive. Time for bed!

Same driver and new guide picked me up on time. We drove straight to the border. For many years I kept all the paperwork, tour tickets, train tickets, even toilet paper from Spain when I was 15! ( Because it was like gauze paper) Now I toss everything out( my kids will thank me someday) but I know to keep the visas. They needed them today to get out of Togo. They stamp the passport so I don’t know why they still need them. Today they also verified my profession, twice. The second guy at immigration told me he has a tooth ache. We both laughed!

First stop today Temple of the Python.

They are sacred and a part of Voo Doo. 70% of Benin people practice Voo Doo. A Catholic Church was built straight across from it. You can believe in both religion. There are mosques in Benin but not in Togo. One of the additional guides, not sure why they dilute the profits, was Moslem but believes in Voo Doo too. There are other religions too and they all get along, says the guide. You can make a wish at the python temple. They are fed one a month. All are let free from time to time. Most come back or the villagers bring them back.
There is a big basin that gets filled with water every so often by virgins. My guide was hard to understand. She spoke very fast

They call Quidah, the Vatican City of Voo Doo. Sacred Python area, marks the Voo Doo center. Catholic Church faces it, on purpose, not as a challenge but as consenting.

We picked up another guide. He was the Muslim and he was very funny. He took me to the Slave auction area. Here the slaves were sold and immediately branded. They waited in a holding area where they had to crouch down and they were gagged. They were fed a couple pieces of bread and water every 48 hours. If too sick or weak they cut off their arms or hands and they were put in a pit to die. If they lived and were strong enough, the walked around the Sausage tree three times and walked a couple more miles to the ships
On the ships, they also had women lie on top of the men to hopefully produce and third slave.
I researched all of this and can find nothing. These are stories passed down generation to generation.

Next stop: Sacred forest for kings. First king disappeared and became a tree. After that the kings were the sons of the previous king. There is still a King but just for pageantry, like the UK and the is a Governor like a Prime Minister.

More pics when my phone charges!

It would have been my Dads 85th birthday today. We celebrated a lot of birthdays together since mine is tomorrow.

Not much sleep last night. I should be over the time change by now but apparently I am not, then I heard noises and the curtains moving. So I am up early having coffee and breakfast with this view.

Today I go East to Benin. I was actually there yesterday for a second in the roundabout at the border.

More adventures today.

A great nights sleep. Up early and had a little breakfast. Made me a little queasy. Hopefully I am ok for the day.

We started at the Fetish market, not that kind of fetish, but Voo Doo.

A person who is sick comes to the market for a reading by a priest. He determines if a spiritual or disease problem. If disease, they are sent to the hospital. If spiritual the priest will use dead animals and herbs for a cure. It was fascinating.  And very smelly. Snakes, monkey heads, parrots etc.

A priest did a blessing for me and offered several types of talismans for me to buy. I bought a small Voo Doo stature to cure me of many ails.

I bought a Voo Doo doll. Hope she brings me what I asked for.

We are back in the Land Cruiser with AC in the back, heavenly.

I am wondering when third world countries decide to fund trash disposal.  Is it when taxing is high enough, tourism dips, or something else? Ghana seems to be cleaner, but Togo ahead is other ways. Ghana has taller buildings and more modern buildings. Togo has a bigger port.

Most people look fresh and clean, but I feel dusty and dirty the minute I step outside, well even inside this hotel too.

Sheets and bedding and rooms remarkably clean. The sewer smells in this hotel, but the shower is great. The sink faucet swings around and the water flow is poor. AC is nice and cold.

Only American food franchise that I see is Pinkberry. No Dominos, sorry Richard Bailey

Just saw huge Bank. Banking West Africa. A very modern building.

Next to the Palace de Lome 

Built by the Germans in the late 1800’s. Then it was the split after WW1 to French and English. Later the residence for the Prime Minister of Lome. It was closed down after a massacre. Rebuilt and now a museum of local artists. I learned new history and culture. Like the NanaBenz.These ladies that got rich from selling fabrics. They were grandmothers that drove Mercedes with their new wealth. Their different fabrics mean different things, like a single woman or the get out fabric, “You go out, I go out.” Meaning you cheat on me, I cheat on you.

The Tuts from northern Togo were interesting. These structures tool 3-4 months to build.

In my world, I usually know how each day will unfold. It’s nice to travel and not know. The surprises are so welcoming yet they start as uncomfortable.

Madagascar had so many surprises, like the snorkel suv that just drove in the water and being told to hop up on a Ox cart to go on to the next adventure. Love these surprises. Adventure!

We drove about 30 minutes and down and around some dirt roads and landed at  a Slave House.  This area a structure was 150 meters from the ocean during the 22 years that Africans were kidnapped and forced into slavery. The house was simple, four rooms at each corner and a center room. The would be slaves would have to wriggle under the house to their holding cell and then they were kept in dark, cramped quarters for several weeks. The area was about 4 feet tall, again no latrines, no clothing and chained together. There was a hatch in the center room where food was thrown down. The guide wanted me to go check it out. I politely said no. As always I could buy all sorts of souvenirs.

I also learned something disturbing from some research that I did today….this is hard to believe, but some of the African Kings actually allowed their people to be kidnapped in exchange for power and gifts like thrones that they didn’t have, ships filled with treasure and other things. So pathetic! Other kings in battle sold their captures to be sold too. How’s that for some history?

A few miles away we came upon a lake, there were canoes, one was waiting for us.  A little confusion of if I take my socks and shoes off or walk in the water. Yup take the shoes off and wade into the muddy water and get into the boat.  Someone rowed a bit because it was shallow, then a Mercury motor (from my hometown of Fond du Lac Wisconsin) motored us across. There were several beautifully dressed ladies and babies on the boat. Most people ignore me but one cute little boy kept staring. He would not smile!  There were also two motor bikes on the canoe.  

We arrived in Togoville in about 15 minutes. After putting my sweaty socks over my sandy feet we walked up to the church. Notre Dame du Lac.  It was built by the Germans in 1910 as Protestant Vhurch, then it became a Catholic Church some time later.

Pope John Paul 2 was here in 1985 to speak with a woman that had a vision from the Virgin Mary in 1940. In the church, they replaced Jesus with Mary at the Lords Supper above the alter.

In case you need a visual, at this point I am dripping in sweat and thinking can we be done and find AC???

I have learned from a NOLS leadership adventure that if there is an endpoint, one can handle whatever is served up. Shout out to Bob Schultz for encouraging me to do that trip. Speedy recovery to you.

Seems like we are meandering in a deserted village annoying all the cute little goats. Make me remember goat yoga that I experienced once.  Why?  Just why?

Then we stopped by some temples to learn about some statues and sacrifices.

The next one was was for men. They could bring their problems, make the correct sacrifice, like blood, fruit or animals and then your problems went away.

There was one for the women too. She was sheltered because woman are sacred here, as they should be! 

Both alters really stunk. I asked why the goats didn’t come  eat the food,  they just didn’t but dogs did.

Lastly the souvenirs. I bought a vegetable dyed picture.  At each location there was a sign in book. Not sure why?

Last stop the beach in Aneho. Near the border where the river and sea converge. Pretty water, dirty beach. Men and women fish here

Music today reggae with a little Harry Belafonte style mixed in

Street art:

Can’t get enough!

Got back to the hotel, after a successful ATM transaction and relaxed a bit. Had dinner and worked on this blog. It’s a lot of work!

Will go to Benin tomorrow with my guide William’s brother. I’ll be there a couple days. Hopefully a little nicer hotel.

We got back to the hotel about 10. I think Asante wanted to go to a karaoke bar, but I needed some rest. And I was hungry. The fish we had was tasty, but so many bones. I was taught by my parents at a very early age to eat fish carefully, sifting it through your teeth, checking for bones. There were too many, so it was a chore. The Africans just ate them right down!! I am getting more cautious with every year. Did I want a fish bone in my throat?

So back at the hotel, had a nice G and T and a pizza. I like pizza because I can just eat the top off and have it for breakfast.

My driver was arriving at 2am. Hard to decide if I should try to sleep. Each night here has been loud. I am over the courtyard and pool and guests have been staying up til 2 or 3 am. I probably slept and hour and then packed up.

Driver plus one were there on time, she might have been a chaperone. Both were in uniform.

Thank God for the border crossing with the immigration officer. He was a friend of the guy that helped me with my visa. Also knew Asante. Everyone knows Asante! After a 3 hour drive, without AC, we arrived at the border, they were waiting for us. We went into the office to leave Ghana then into the office to get into Togo. Needed yellow fever certificate. Mine expires in Aug. So much easier to go with this guy than the guy I had chosen and canceled and much less expensive. The drive to the hotel was about 20 minute past the shipping yard, so many Maersk containers. I was able to check in at 6:30 am. The seaside room is a bit shabby. It had great reviews. Hmmm.

Had some coffee and waited for the tour driver. I am the only one on the tour! Driver and guide and me. Just because they speak English doesn’t mean it’s easy to understand. French is spoken here because it was a French Colony. Ghana was an English Colony.

So within 10 min of tour, we got rear ended. Our car was stopped. Driver and guide got out and so many other men came running to see the damage. And then lots of arguing and finger pointing. It was clearly the huge truck’s fault behind us and just when my neck was feeling better. No one asked how I was! The men looked at the vehicles like it was the first fender bender they had ever seen.

Finally after an hour of waiting for another car we drove for an hour and a half to the the tallest mountain in Togo. They expected me to climb it. No mention of this in the brochure. 90 degrees and 90% humidity. I tried. Too slippery in a dress and sandals and big red spiders. 986 meters tall, 3200 feet, but too steep for me today. So we drove up to the top. One and a half lanes on a very curvy, steep road, hence the incessant horn beeping. I was annoyed. Cell, tv and radio towers, would be a beautiful view but it’s hazy today. Nice jungle some trees look like the Baobab’s of Madagascar
Regee music compared to the rap music yesterday.
Togo has way more scooters and tuk tuks, making traffic crazy. Seems like they might be a little more well off than Ghanaians.

Next stop a Chateau.

Graffiti everywhere but it was till stunning and cooler up so high

Time for lunch. I decided on local food. The white stuff is yam. They take large sticks and pound it until it resembles dough. Then you use you left hand to scoop it up and dip it into the soup. Was good at first. Washed it down with a local lager.

Had to use the bathroom, I have seen much worse!

They wash their hands like the Ugandans. There is a basin brought to the table and some soap and a pitcher of water. Simply dip your hands in the dirty water, lather with the soap and someone pours water over your hands! Voila! Clean sterile hands, ready to operate! Where did that water come from? I prefer the old handy wipes/baby wipes made popular during covid.

I once wondered why my Dad didn’t want to travel. It was actually a rant, because I couldn’t believe he wasn’t into travel. He later got the bug. And then he died in Budapest!

I always wanted to see women carrying things on their head, ride an elephant etc. He said you could see all of the in Ladoga Wisconsin. He was Wrong!

Next stop the famous waterfall! Kpalime! It’s an underground waterfall, meaning you must walk down a lot of steps in hot humid weather to see the waterfall, again in a dress and sandals. It was beautiful and worth the sweaty effort. I wished that I had a suit. My guides, half my age couldn’t keep up with me. Mother’s Day hike is coming dear family! We will pick a different date since Nana will be here!

The ride back was so hot, I asked that the AC be directed to the back seat. The guide changed seats with me to the front, but then the AC stopped working. My head was bobbing with jet lag! Two hours back to the New Robinson Hotel.

Back to the hotel. The waves sound perfect. The shower was well needed. Dinner was Greek salad and tenderloin with mushrooms and green pepper corns. Both were wonderful.

Too much food. They hate wasted food so I hope they send it to China or Africa. Tomorrow is more Togo!